Riding The Crest 2009

WASHINGTON Section K                Rainey Pass to Stevens Pass

August 17 - September 7

Ralph and I got up and started packing on August 17 after a couple days of rest and restocking. We worked all morning but still did not leave Lost River Resort in Mazama until after lunch. At Rainey Pass Ralph helped me pack the panniers on Jur and at 2:30 I headed south. I had a hard time finding where the trail crossed Hwy 20. I was finally saying goodbye to Ralph at 2:45. The trail was mostly forest with a nice surface but some rock. There were two creek crossings with log bridges for the hikers. We traversed the streams. The first one was very rough with difficult rocks and Harmony got a scrape. The second stream was not too bad and both horses crossed fine. In some places the trail was very overgrown and in others it had been trimmed very wide. I entered North Cascades National Park and passed Fireweed horse camp and stopped to get a look at that nice horse camp with hitching posts. I was riding down a valley with Granite Creek on the east side and the mountains of the north Cascades surrounding us. I rode on to Six Mile Camp and found it occupied. One of the two men (father and son, Dave & Chris K.) told me it wouldn’t bother them for me to stay. Since that was where I had planned to camp (after getting a late start) I did. I set up and Dave came over and invited me to eat their remaining couscous (very good and nice change of menu for me). We all hung our food on the bear wire that is permanently located in this camp. My first time to hang my food. I still kept a bag of snack food in my tent in a OpSak bag. (I have been using these odor proof bags the entire trip and have had no animal problems with my food in them.) I shared that I was riding for the Susan G. Komen for the Cure in honor of Wendy and Dave and Chris told me about their wife and mother’s battle over cancer. Wendy has breast cancer she has been battling for 11 years and their loved one had cervical cancer which she has successfully treated with a diet called macrobiotics. We sat around the campfire talking of this until 9:50 and then I got in my tent and wrote in my journal briefly.

August 18 was a gorgeous day and Dave said it would be for several days. I'd heard Washington can be the wettest and coldest part of the trail so I was hoping it would be lovely until I got to Stevens Pass in four or five days. The horses and I climbed up and down. We passed over Mantle Creek that was washed out but the horses managed fine. At 11am we descended to the North Fork River crossing and at noon came to the Bridge Creek stock camp with corrals. Great timing, I put Jur and Harmony in the large corral and fed their lunch while I ate mine. After lunch we passed Bridge Creek Camp (another great campsite) and took the old wagon trail as the PCT was washed out. The day turned hot! By 3:45 we left Lake Chelan Recreational Area and entered Glacier Peak Wilderness Area . Once again I had a difficult time finding the trail but the wrong turn allowed me to see a bear and her two cubs on Stehekin Road. As we rode along the Agnes Gorge with Agnes Creek we encountered six women out for 6 days who were amazed I was alone. They were setting up camp for the night and I rode on to find mine. I had seven more miles before Hemlock Camp. A long day; the horses and I were tired! I made camp just before dark with the creek and a toilet and a level tent site. No one but a curious buck sharing the camp.

After packing up and filtering water from Agnes Creek at Hemlock Camp the next morning, the horses and I immediately crossed the creek but there had been a wash out here too. After some difficult steps over logs we were able to go on. I saw more hikers this day than any other day on the trail so far. Many were not PCT hikers as there are many other trails in this wilderness. Most I asked about the detour. As the morning progressed I got a clearer picture of the detour. It would start after Suiattle Pass and go to Trinity Trailhead (a dirt road), down it 3.5 miles to Little Giant trailhead, cross Chiwawa River and climb NW to Little Giant Pass cross the valley and climb Boulder Pass. After Boulder Pass it would turn south again following Boulder Creek to White River where it would turn west across the bridge before doubling back north to pick up Indian Creek Trail to Indian Pass at the PCT again. Most hikers were NOT doing this detour as they could climb over fallen trees. I and other equestrians had no choice. It took longer than I had envisioned to get to Cloudy Pass and then Suiattle Pass. I still had to check my maps as there were so many side trails it got confusing. Finally I crossed Miners Creek at 1pm. But the second crossing of Miners Creek was a wash out. The log bridge for the hikers remained but the creek crossing was covered up with logs. I saw no good way through or around. If this was going to be the start of the downfall and I was not at the detour yet, I was going to have problems. I dropped the horses leads to look around. The only safe crossing was the log. It was as wide as the trail we had been on for 1600 miles now but not made for a horse. I went across it and noticed Harmony was moving on the other side. He stepped onto the log and then in a flash I saw he was going to leap the remaining distance – about 8 feet. But I was in the way. So I leap too. I practically dove to the other side (fortunately sand) and to the side. Harmony flew by me and stopped on solid ground. I stood up and checked him out. He was fine but if he had slipped he would have fallen about four feet onto logs. I went to Jur. Jur had seen that circus act and refused to duplicate it. Smart horse. So I told him he’d have to climb the embankment and then descend into the creek. He agreed to that but the descent was into what acted like quick sand. He started sinking. So I (stepping on all the logs) encouraged him to hurry his progress. He too leap to the other side. Now we were all safely across and I prayed there would be no need to turn back and face that again. At 1:50 we crossed over Miners Ridge and headed down. It was not a half mile down the trail that the Bucks Pass Trail split to the east from the PCT. This was my detour. I turned east and it immediately started a climb. A climb like none on the PCT. Most of the PCT has been put in with gradual increases and decreases in elevation. This trail used very little switchbacks and started climbing straight up. In no time I was exhausted from hanging on. The horses had to take frequent breathers. The climb up to Bucks Pass was long and arduous. We did encounter downfall but were able to get around it until we came to a tree about big around as a fifty-five gallon barrel. Harmony squeezed through a break between the stump and another tree, about 20’ feet above the trail. He got hung up but pushed through and I tied him and went for Jur. Knowing it was a tight squeeze I took the packs off Jur and put them on the far side of the fallen tree. Even without the packs, Jur refused to go between the tree and stump as Harmony had. (This is another example of Harmony’s BIG heart. He may be scared of his own shadow but he is willing to do anything I ask of him. Jur is too smart for his own good and wants to make his own decisions.) He did NOT want to go my way and was rearing every time I urged him to try. Higher up was even steeper so I tried the lower way. It was a long way around and he wanted to rear there too but we got it done. Once we were back on the trail I had to repack Jur with all the packs. All this took an hour and a half. At four o’clock we passed over Bucks Pass. Trinity was ten miles from Bucks Pass and we were a mile into it. At 5:15 I started looking for a campsite. We rode down along Bucks Creek and I found an established camp. There was a creek for water and lots of grass. I un-packed the horses, put hobbles on Jur, tied Harmony on a long line, and let them graze. I went to filter water for myself and noticed a camper already in their sleeping bag on the far side of the creek. I went back to camp and continued to set up. About 10 minutes later a woman walked from the creek toward my campsite. I greeted her and she asked where I was riding and I answered the Pacific Crest. She said she had rode it as well. I asked her name. She answered “Joanne.” I asked, “are you Joanne L____?” (I knew her full name from reading part of her journal on the PCT website before the trip.) With a shocked expression she said yes. (If there was anyone I had wanted to meet before riding the trail it was Joanne who had rode the PCT in two years and I had enjoyed her writing. We both found it incredible that we should meet in the Glazier Peak Wilderness in thousands of acres of wilderness and hundreds of miles of trails.) She was surprised and thrilled that I knew who she was. She then proceeded to tell me that she was hiking out after five days of mountain climbing. I invited her to dinner and to my camp. We had a lovely evening and she told me about her experience riding the trail. 

Joanne and I were up with the dawn. I fed the horses and then started oatmeal for Joanne and I. As we sat eating, Joanne made notes on sections of trail for me.  What a God-send! I am in awe that out of the entire west coast and the entire Glacier Peak Wilderness (no small area of vastness) we end up on the same trail, in the same camp, at the same time. It took me longer to pack up all my gear and two horses than her 28 pound pack. She headed out saying she was slow and I would catch her. I did, but not for 6 miles when we were very near the Trinity Trailhead. At the trailhead I fed the horses and myself lunch and Joanne and I went over the detour on the posted Forest Service Map and my map. At almost 1:30 we head down the gravel Trinity Road. Joanne was my chase vehicle for the 3.5 miles and took photos as well. Several cars passed us and the dust was incredible. I tried not to breathe as they went by. When we got to the Little Giant Trailhead Joanne said she was amazed at the control I had over the two horses. I said, “yes, I have two fantastic horses and I don’t imagine I can do this without them; who they are.” I rode west across the Chiwawa River after Joanne and I said our goodbyes. We started climbing and had not gone a mile when a huge (I mean HUGE) tree was across the trail. I could not believe it, I even thought I must be on the wrong trail. "How can there be downfall on a detour around downfall?" It was actually two big trees and they were not going anywhere. I got out my map to be sure I was on the right trail. They are on a steep slope, both sides, and I saw no way around but I looked and explored anyway. Joanne was gone and could not help me. There was a ranger station about 7 miles further down Trinity Road but other than sympathizing, I doubt there was anything they could do. I hiked up and down the slope looking for a way around. I thought I found one on the down side and started sawing limbs and removing debris from the path. But I soon realized that one of the two trees that is on the trail is also blocking our way down there. It was too big a step or a jump on an incline and would be dangerous. I had to admit defeat and, holding back tears, turn the horses around. It was so hard to know I had come so far, so many miles, and could not go on after all the other obstacles we had overcome. I could not believe I had come all that way and must give up. It was almost 3pm. Not 1000 yards back down the trail was a semi-cleared two track. It appeared to be an old logging road. I’ve cleared many of these in the Georgia Mountains for trail. This one looked like it went straight up. We took it. It did go straight up. In no time the horses were huffing and puffing and we had to rest. I was pretty sure this  was headed in the right direction and would intersect with the Little Giant Trail I was suppose to be on. I dismounted, tied the horses, and hiked up to check it out. Sure enough, there was my trail. Woohoo! I did have to saw some limbs along the steep incline for Jur and his packs to clear. I was nearing exhaustion. I led Harmony up first and then Jur who immediately overtook me. So I grabbed his tail as he passed and hitched a ride up. After catching our breath I mounted up and we headed up the Little Giant Pass Trail. And it was UP! I had never been on such a steep, continuous climbing trail. The switchbacks, such as they were, did little to break up the steep climb. I was actually worried that Harmony would topple over backwards. I tried walking but could make no progress. All my energy was used up. So I rode but let Harmony rest on every level piece of ground, Jur doing the same. Somehow we made it. The downhill was just as bad so I got off and walked it. Then we had one more climb. As we got near the top it turned to solid rock! Someone had put cairns (rock piles) and I could vaguely see “a trail.” I lead the horses one at a time, praying all the way. It was a hellish trail. The rock ended but the trail became overgrown and hardly discernable. The horses were doing great and they set the pace. We finally reached a top with a creek and some grass. I saw the trail was still climbing and could see the pass but decided not to do anymore. The horses had grass and water and I had water and a tent site. What could be better? I got a bath in a pool in the creek. After a day of sawing trees and climbing impossible inclines, I enjoyed the refreshing bath. My leg muscles were pulling when I got up and down. It was from all the walking I did. There are lots of huckleberries on the bushes around camp that I enjoyed. I also had some raspberries earlier at the creek crossing where I filtered water. It was a warm evening with overcast skies, clouds building, and an occasional gust of wind. Just as I finished dinner and dusk was departing, I saw lightening in the darkening clouds. Lightening up there could be dangerous. I covered all the gear with the Tyvek. Better than going out in the dark should it rain. 

August 21  Friday  Little Giant Pass  (Click the sign to read about that day)

After the accident we camped for two nights at the airfield. The first day we drove into Leavenworth and walked around the town and took Ech to the river for a swim. The second morning Deputy Gary L. stopped by and we chatted for almost an hour. I spent a lot of time on the phone as did Ralph trying to find someone to go in and retrieve my gear. The third day we went to Lake Wenatchee State Park to get two campsites, one for us and one for Jack and Elaine who were on their way to spend time with us. A ranger made arrangements to give us a “contingency” site as he had been told about our loss. I was surprised how fast the word was spreading but was heartened by the help. The next day, Doug (who had hiked with me) and his wife, Margie, and Jack and Elaine (uncle and aunt) arrived and we shared dinner. Doug & Margie drove home that night and Jack & Elaine stayed for two days. The next day we went to Midway Store and while there a woman approached me asking if I was the one who'd lost the horses. Chelan A. and her son, Cody, were very caring and helpful. She offered me names and phone numbers of people who might help me retrieve my gear. I ended up making arrangements with Ron R. Ron arranged for us to stay at the Tillicum Horse Club at the Chelan County Fairgrounds in Cashmere, WA. The fourth day I forced myself to call Joanne L. and tell her the news. I knew she would be terribly shocked and upset. She immediately offered to help and contacted some hikers for help. I thought it too much to ask hikers to haul out more weight so stuck with paying Ron. In the meantime we drove to Belleview, WA with Ech. We had a restful two days at Jack & Elaine’s home. They gave us time to start healing and time with family caring for us. I had time with my cousins that was unplanned and wonderful. On the second day the doorbell rang and I went to answer it as Sue (my cousin) and Elaine were busy making lunch. I opened the door to my brother, Glenn! I was shocked and asked, “What are you doing here?” as I gave him a huge hug, which he returned. Glenn had written me an e-mail offering to come help with the gear retrieval. When I did not respond (timely), he jumped on a plane out of Orlando, FL with some of his climbing gear. What a blessing! That night, Jack treated the whole family to Chinese food. We had a wonderful evening of tears and laughter that I treasure. The following day we headed back to Cashmere with Glenn following.  

We got ready to go out to the Trinity Road to camp. Now that Glenn had arrived I had decided NOT to go out for the gear retrieval. I did not have to and I did not “want” to so I would stay at camp. (I did not know God already had something else in mind.) As we drove out Hwy 2 back to Cashmere and our trailer we stopped at Snoqualmie Pass to look at where I would be at that pass. At Tillicum Horse Club Glenn worked on his gear while Ralph and I got ready to leave in the morning. 

On Friday August 28, we drove to the  Chiwawa Horse Camp on Chiwawa River Road (also called Trinity Road). On the way there we once again stopped at the Midway Store by Lake Wenatchee to get ice cream. There we found out there had been another horse accident on a trail very near where my accident had happened. I started asking questions and was told three people had been riding and one had fallen and they were looking for help to get the horse out from where it fell. I knew immediately I was going to help. As we left the store, a sheriff’s truck drove up. We went to the officer and he told us that all the people were fine, only the horse was down a steep embankment with seemingly no way out. The sheriff’s department does not rescue animals so they could do nothing. There was no animal rescue organizations in the area and like I had found, little information on who could help. We continued our drive to the camp. We found a big enough campsite for our rig and Glenn pulled in behind us. (He slept on mats with a sleeping bag in the back of our cleaned horse trailer.) We disconnected the truck from the trailer and went looking for the party with the fallen horse. We found a trailer at a trailhead with two horses but no one there so we left a note. We went back to our camp to continue preparing for the gear retrieval the following day. It was late in the evening when three women arrived. They explained that their husband and father (Jim) had gotten off his mare (Reba) when she got upset when the other two horses had turned around on the trail. Reba then backed up and off the trail and tumbled down about 50’ before hitting a tree which held her long enough to stop her momentum and then she fell another 100’ to a creek bottom. She was scraped up but seemed fine otherwise. Glenn and I had agreed that two teams ought to be organized, one for the gear retrieval and one for the horse. He would go for the gear and I would go for the horse. Jim stayed with his horse for the night while the women stayed at the trailer. We would attempt to get her out in the morning. I met two other equestrian campers. Mike and Tom were riding out the same trail to find their fall hunting camp and were experienced backcountry horsemen. They also had a chain saw and the experience of cutting trails. They agreed to be part of the rescue team. At dusk Ron and his wife, Angie, and Lynette and Mike arrived with their horses and a mule they would use to retrieve the gear (I did not know until later that Glenn hiked the whole way.) We all got some sleep so we could get up early.

The gear team of five equine and five humans left before 8 when I left with the girls and Mike and Tom to get the horse. We hiked one mile in with saws and clippers and marking tape. We found Jim and Reba doing okay. Then we split up, Debera (Jim's wife) and I started climbing down a zigzag route to the creek, marking it as we went. When we got to the horse, Mike and Tom suggested  another trail but first they looked at ours. Soon we realized it was too steep and we went to look at the other proposed route. We also found problems with it. By now it was noon and we all took a break and ate the lunches we had brought. After some renewed energy we went as a group to walk further down the trail for a way to get down to the creek and follow it back to the mare. This third proposed route was what we ended up clearing all afternoon. It still had some very difficult inclines but we all agreed it was our best effort. The guys put an incredible amount of work into clearing every log out of the trail. We knew Reba would be very tired and unable to do any great feat. We wanted to give her every chance of getting out that night. It was almost five o’clock when Jim lead Reba through the brush and crossed the creek to begin the climb. I warned Jim that he would have some places where it would be dangerous if Reba chose to charge up hill or refused to go and slipped down. This was a situation where continuous progress was best yet Jim was exhausted too. I lead the way (so I could indicate some of the harder parts) with Jim and Reba behind me and Debera bringing up the tail. It was 6:45 when Reba stepped back on the trail she had fallen from 36 hours before. We then had the mile plus trek back to camp where Joanne L. was waiting and assisted me in treating some of Reba’s wounds. I was blessed to be able to assist Jim and Debera to rescue their horse when my heart was hurting from losing mine. We all agreed to share our food around the campfire at our campsite. In the meantime the gear team had trailered to the Little Giant Pass Trailhead and ridden across the Chiwawa River. They too encountered the big tree I had and were able to cut it out. Then they proceeded five more miles to the pass. Everyone later said they were glad not to have to ride “over” the pass, it was bad enough getting to it. Glenn, on foot, at least did not have a horse to worry about. Lynette and Mike stayed with their horses and Angie stayed with hers and Ron horses. Glenn and Ron hiked to the accident site and the gear (about 50 feet apart). They took the mule just over the ridge to carry out the gear. Glenn said they found it “exactly” as I described it and that “the place was extreme.” At first they tried carrying the gear out a few things at a time as I had. But then they devised a litter and carried it out between them. Then it was loaded on the mule to carry back to camp. When he arrived back at the camp that night Glenn wept with me, reliving the agony of that place. Everyone around the campfire that night was exhausted.

In the morning Angie and Ron were the first to leave as their son, Seth, was waiting for them. Joanne left mid morning and then Ralph and I walked over to see Reba. She looked fine and I later was told she kept her foal. Mike and Tom had gone back out to find their hunting camp and Mike and Lynette loaded their horses and left next. Glenn followed Ralph and I back to Tillicum Horse Camp in Cashmere. Glenn was able to stay with us until late that evening when he drove back to the Seattle Airport for an early morning flight. We would see him and all my family at our annual family reunion in central Florida between Christmas and the new year but it seemed a longs ways off then.

The next four days were restful. We had visits from people in the area who had heard of the accident and wanted to give their encouragement. My tears were being shared by a multitude of people and the e-mails and phone calls were regular and welcome. God used the arms of strangers to encircle me with comfort. One of the most precious came from a stranger. Debi R. wrote that my horses, Jur and Harmony would be at the gates of heaven waiting for me to ride them in when I got there. Immediately, upon reading that, I saw them in my minds eye, pawing in impatience as they awaited my arrival at the pearly gates. It has been such a blessing to see them in a place so beautiful and different than I last saw them. More amazingly, a few days later I shared Debi’s description with my good friend Jenni L. back home. (Jenni and Dave have suffered the loss of their two sons.) Jenni, in turn, immediately saw her two sons each astride one of my horses and each holding the lead of another beautiful horse as they all awaited our arrival. The gift keeps on giving! Late on September 2, Leon and Linda R. arrived with Cane. Linda and Cane had rode with me in Section K of California. Linda offered me the partnership of her horse, Cane, and Leon drove them 19 hours to bring them to me. I had decided to return to the trail to seek some solace and time to heal and to not allow the ending of what had been an amazing and wonderful trip to end on one day of pain. I had realized Jur and Harmony had given the ultimate for me to begin this journey. There is an old cowboy saying, "If you fall off  your horse, get back on and ride on." It is not just about riding but about life. I'm sure it is tied to the saying, "If at first you do not succeed, try and try again." I spent a day getting him fitted with the packs behind his saddle and used to the weight on his rump.

On September 4, the day I was going back on the trail, I awoke battling the images of Jur and Harmony’s loss. I got busy so my mind would dwell on other things. Leon & Linda arrived just after 6 and we loaded Cane and Ech in their rig and got on the road through Leavenworth to White River Road and the Indian Creek Trailhead. Chelan and Cody were there and saddled. We unloaded Cain I started saddling and packing him. He stood well and then I lounged him, an improvement over the day before but I still did not trust him. Once we had him ready, I mounted up and we took pictures and then the three of us started out. I let Cody & Chelan lead. We had some bridges and one he walked over and one he refused and I lead him. Then he got to water, lots of little trickles and would not cross without me dismounting and leading him. The next ones took a long time with tiny steps but he did go across. The trail was a wonderful forest trail until we started up the valley. Then it was open fields that were overgrown, sometimes making it hard to discern the trail. We rode until 12:30 and stopped for lunch. Cody told me about building saddles. He has made four and he is only 19 y/o. After lunch Chelan and Cody turned back and I rode on. It was about a mile and a half to the PCT, clearly marked and nice and wide, and so welcome. I felt at home. Meader Meadows was relatively close and had forest service volunteers and a book reading group (I met one of them) camping there. So I decided to ride on and get more miles done. Also there was 70% chance of rain the next couple of days. At Sallyann Lake it started to lightly rain and I started looking for a campsite. Around 5:30 I finally found a grassy field and a tent site under trees with more trees across the trail to tie Cain to. At 6:30 I was making Chicken Alfredo and hot tea. For awhile the rain stopped and the sky parted. I went outside and took some pictures. The camera is not functioning well. It has to be coaxed to take a photo. Something was not connecting well since it's tumble down the mountain. Cain was quiet. I already had a feeling he would not be able to do this trek, even with some miles cut out. It takes an extraordinary horse and he was not that yet. But everyone had seen an improvement in him in a day’s time. If nothing else, Linda would have a better trained horse.  

While I was packing the next morning the first hiker came by. Her name was Miss Information. Then Lint, Chief and Ice Axe came by and Bean Stalk before I was in the saddle. It was raining off and on but I got packed while it was not raining. I set off on foot as it was downhill. I immediately took a wrong turn and knew by the lousy terrain. The PCT has some rough, and even bad, spots but not for long. This trail was rough, overgrown, and a bad slope. I turned around and saw that I had missed the first switchback. Not even 100’ later the packs were taking the saddle to the side. I had to take off the feedbags to get everything back in place. I thought one feedbag might be heavier so I took a bag of feed out and fed Cain a bite every few yards. Cain had quite the day with almost every obstacle and trail object. He had bridges, mush, rocks to climb over, bad edge, and hikers and a dog. I passed a lot of hikers. At the end of the day I met Dry Foot from England. I was surprised how many Britain's (as well as hikers from other countries) were hiking this incredible trail until he explained that it is the longest continuous maintained trail in the world. That is quite a draw to the outdoorsman. I found a great camp on Wenatchee Pass at 5:57 and was in my tent cooking dinner at 6:57. Unfortunately a tent pole popped out of the sleeve and ripped my tent fly. If it continued to rain the tent would leak. (I did not try to repair it as the fabric was wet.) Before dark I noticed the clouds rolling back in. 

I was awake at 6:45 and on the trail around 8. It stopped raining just as I got out of the tent to start packing up-lovely. (The tent only had a little water inside.) Cain was good all night and stood well, grazing, untied for the packing up. I walked him over the creek crossing. I made every effort to keep out of his way, knowing he had a tendency to jump water crossings. He did jump it and nicked my right calf with his hoof. I had a bruise and it was sore to walk. We started out with me walking for quite a ways. The conditions were very wet and the trail was slick. He was going through most the small water crossings (there were lots of puddles) but at a good size creek he refused and really pitched a fit when I insisted. I finally led him across but I got back on and made him cross again. He did better and better. We rode past Lake Janus still in morning fog. The rain was heavier than the day before and my hands got colder as the day went on and they stayed wet. I decided not to stop to eat lunch as it was raining and I wanted to reach Ralph and the trailer at Stevens Pass as quickly as possible to get both myself and Cain dry. About 1 and ½ hour from Stevens Pass I met up with five hikers (4 guys and 1 gal) that I had met back in the CA dessert. They told me they had seen Ralph at the trail head (he got there close to noon with Leon and Linda) and spoken to him. They had heard of my accident only a couple days before. One of the guys immediately asked me how I survived a 70’ fall. I told him by the grace of God. We talked for awhile about the accident and I shed some tears and then thanked them for talking and told them I did not want to hold them up any longer in the rain. It gets cold when you just stand. So they went north having about 8 more days before reaching Canada. I continued south and spent almost the rest of the trail crying. I was realizing the heart of the trail, for me, had died.

We spent Labor Day at Chelan County Fairgrounds, Tillicum Riders, in Cashmere, WA. Cain was swelling in his rear legs, commonly called stocking up. (It is caused by irregular exercise. In his case a lot of walking and then a lot of standing that he is not used to.) Ralph wanted to go to Wenatchee to do the laundry so I went with him to go to a Starbucks to update the website and answer e-mails. I also bought new riding boots as mine had busted in my fall. We got back around 1:30 and Ralph made us hot dogs and I continued to make phone calls. I was slowly reconnecting with the world. That evening Joanne W. came by the trailer and invited us to stay at her place. With her was Debi R. who had written me the beautiful e-mail. They were there for a Tillicum Riders meeting, as was Lynette, and they joined us for tea afterwards. For two days more we stayed in Cashmere at the home of Mike and Joanne W. We were waiting out the swelling in Cane's ankles. We had a a time of rest for ourselves as well and lots of time on the Internet. But more importantly, I had the care and time to continue to heal. Mike and Joanne treated us like we were their brother and sister (which we are! J ) and sent us off with much encouragement.

NEXT: Hikers and Hunters

So many trails - So little time!

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