Riding The Crest 2009

SECTION F  TEHACHAIPI PASS TO WALKER PASS

June 7 - June 15

It was 6:30pm and I was sitting on a flat rock, chair height, outside my tent at Golden Oak Spring off the PCT. I have been watching the sun slowly sink in the west and highlighting a nearby mountain in its rays. Susan and I met at Tehachaipi Pass at just before seven this morning and rode these 18 miles by three. The trail was sandy to rocky, from 18” to a one lane road, up and down and in every direction around the mountains leading to the Sierras. We rode alongside Hwy 58 before turning up into the mountains, then the climb became strenuous for 7.9 miles. The Tehachaipi Mountains are often called the Sierra Tail as they are contained in the same range. The wind was strong and buffeting us continuously. Most of the morning I was holding onto my hat. We were not the only ones huffing and puffing. We were passed by a local fireman out running the mountain to train. We entered a wind generator farm and rode beneath the massive windmills that hum loudly and continuously. By now the horses were fine with them. Late in the day we started to see trees, a welcome sight to me. We made our camp just above Golden Oak Spring. With the Spring a short walk away it was a wonderful camp. Directly west are more wind generators humming throughout the night. At sunset they were casting repeating shadows on our camp. 

I woke just as it was getting light but tried to get so more rest by pulling the sleeping bag over my eyes. Around six I fed Harmony who did great all through the night and then fed myself. I ate the oatmeal I packed back home and it was great. Almost too much food but I was hungry again way before lunch so I guess not. We headed down the trail at 7:30. We passed more wind generators and one with men working on it (I think it was going up as there was a crane there). We passed one hiker that was still in his tent (and ended up camped with him tonight at Robin Bird Spring. The up hills were long and steep, more so than other times. We really were entering the Sierras. The terrain had once again changed with pines mixed with Manzanita. We were glimpsing the Mojave when we were high and seeing the high Sierras to come. We went through quite a few private pieces of land, one on Wilson Spring with cows contently watching us pass. At 3:30 we were on Weldon Mountain and had made 13.8 miles, leaving us 5 more to Jawbone Canyon Road where we were to meet Ralph with our re-supplies. There was confusion about where Ralph was to meet us so we started down that road. It was steep with tight switchbacks and deep ruts. It was hard walking DOWN it! We walked 2 miles and there was Ralph in the truck coming down behind us! How he knew we had not gone to the meeting place I do not know yet. But he stopped us from going about 5 miles down a very steep road. Ralph had everything we needed and more. He made us hamburgers and had brought us drinks. He was going all the way back to Tehachaipi tonight and we still had to go to Robin Bird Spring so we hurried to feed and water the horses and ourselves. We packed more feed for the horses and started back up the road on foot to give the horses a break. When we got to the Robin Bird Spring I set up and turned on the computer for some journaling. I got into my sleeping bag at 9.

I did not sleep very well but enough so that I was not exhausted. I got up once in the night to check Harmony. He was fine but had pawed up the area. We rode the short distance back to the PCT and were headed down the trail at 8am. We woke to a fine mist and fog. We rode out of it and into a beautiful partly cloudy day. The trail meandered up and down all day, without any extreme climbs, and the downhill to Kelso Road for quite a ways (which we walked). It started in trees and was a beautiful Sierra Forest ride all morning. Before dropping down to Kelso Valley Road we left the trees and were once again in high desert terrain, which we will travel the next two days. This was such a steep descent that we dismounted and led the horses down. We saw the water cache and Gantz (the hiker that shared Robin Bird Springs with us) was resting. We moved on to the intersection with Kelso Valley Road. Ralph arrived just after 2 and had the truck loaded with everything we need. We got water to the horses and then started looking for a good campsite, hard to find on this Joshua Tree spotted hillside. The wind gusts were a concern but they came and went. When they blew it was chilly but when they died it was comfortable. Sue and I started going through our supplies and restocking what we would carry the next two days. Ralph made us and Gantz hot dogs with chips and a coke. After 6 another couple came by, Norstrider and Vee (Canadians). We gave them cokes, water, and a chair to rest in. We enjoyed a visit before they hiked on and we set up our camp and Ralph went back to the Red Rose Ranch for the night.  

Despite the wind howling and actually moving my tent around, I got some sleep. Ralph arrived at 6:30 and helped me take down my tent. With the wind blowing that was a challenge, especially since I was under a Joshua Tree that had already pierced my head and I did not want putting holes in my tent. After saying goodbye to Ralph, Susan and I were on the trail and signing the trail register at Kelso Valley Road at 7:05. We were maybe ¾ of a mile up thetrail when he honked from the road and we waved. The trail was great. I was riding Harmony barefoot, no boots and he went the whole day without. At 9:30 we had covered 5.3 miles. Great water and sufficient graze made for a good day. Susan and I really enjoyed this trail. At 2 o’clock we came to a water cache with Norstrider and Vee there and they followed us up the trail. The trail out of that canyon was tough, about 4 miles, climbing all the time. At 3 we had made 18.2 miles and were at 6975’ crossing a saddle with spectacular views. We finally made the “top” at 7037’ and then dropped slightly on the other side. It was several more miles to the sign for Yellow Jacket Springs. We rode the extra mile off trail down to the spring and found an acceptable (and pretty good) campsite and set up. We let the horses graze on the green grass while we set up and they were quite happy and barely dented the grass. For the night, the horses were on a highline and I sprayed Harmony’s neck and head with fly spray (for the mosquitoes). I got up once in the night to give the horses water. 

I woke at 6:15 feeling good and fully rested. How nice. It was cold but no wind, making it bearable. I was amazed how well my tent was holding in my heat. The sleeping bag was a perfect temp too. I got dressed with the sleeping bag still around me and then went out to feed Harmony. We were on the trail at 8. But had a mile to go to regain the PCT. Once there it was level as we traveled the ridge. After only a couple of miles we started to descend and did so the rest of the day. At 10:10 we had covered 6.4 miles. The downhill was as grueling as the previous day’s uphill. We both were off and walking the horses to safeguard their joints. I was really feeling this and would have loved to ride the last couple of miles but resisted until it leveled off with only ¾ of a mile to go. We were at the Walker Pass Campground at 2 pm. Trail Angel, Oakie Girl, had set up lots of treats, a shade tent and her own tent (she stays out there for weeks) and was shuttling people to town. Ralph and William arrived at 3 and we all spent some time talking to hikers gathered at that trailhead to enjoy Oakie Girl’s trail treats. Ralph offered one to have a bath in our water off the back of the truck. Just before 4 we headed down to the Red Rose Ranch with their borrowed 2 horse trailer hauling Harmony. When we got to the ranch we bathed Harmony. Ralph made steak, potatoes, squash and a salad the three of us enjoyed and I did some journaling. 

The next two days were “zero days.” Ralph brought John St. Ryan over for me to meet. He and his wife, Joyce, train riders and horses in a style of riding used in bull fighting! After watching him ride his stallion we went to Inyokern to both feed and tack stores. We were looking for hooks and rings to replace the buckles on the new pack sent to me from Long Riders. Ralph and William dropped me at the Starbucks and I worked about an hour on the website update and e-mails. I did not get the update done but read e-mails and guest book entries to Ralph. (We are really enjoying hearing from everyone and are in awe of all the people traveling with us.) I worked most the day on the computer and Ralph worked sewing the rings on the pack with William’s company. I also made long overdue phone calls.

NEXT: Packing with TWO horses!

 So many trails - So little time!

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