Riding The Crest 2009

SECTION C   SNOW CREEK TO CAJON PASS

May 14  to May 21 

On May 14  we set the alarm for 4am and got ready in the dark. We loaded Harmony at the High5 Ranch and trailered him to Snow Creek. Harmony was to take me to Whitewater Creek Road where Ralph was to meet me with Jur at noon. After a picture and a kiss I rode off at 6:15. The trail was marked by four by fours at visual intervals. Eventually it turned west and first went under the railroad tracks and then I-10. It was 6:57. We rode went up the Wind Farm canyon and stopped for water. We continued our ride up the canyon right beside the wind generators. At the end of that canyon we came on a hiker who photographed us and I later learned to be Tom. He hiked with us on an off the rest of the day. I got White Water Creek at 10am and waited two hours for Ralph (I was early and there was no phone connection). I took everything off Harmony and bathed him in the creek. Ralph came and made grilled cheese sandwiches while I got the horses fed and packed Jur. After lunch I rode back to the PCT with Jur packed for a two day ride. The trail was up and down some hills and along a ridge until it eventually dropped down into Mission Creek Canyon. It was five o’clock and I was feeling the long day. I thought it would make a nice camp. Soon Tom came along and we agreed to camp together. Just as I finished unpacking Jur I dropped his lead line to allow him to continue to graze. I saw that he started to wander and I called him back. But instead he started to trot away. I called and he kept going. I started jogging after him saying “Whoa” and Jur started galloping away. I started running. Jur kept going and I was starting to get very concerned. He went all the way back to the trail and then started back south on it. Tom came running up and suggested we climb up the hill and cut Jur off. I knew I could not make it in time and said so. So Tom said he would and I said I’d keep following Jur up the trail. Tom said later that he made it in time for Jur to see him and head off back DOWN the trail and then across the canyon. He raced up a distant canyon, me calling for him all the time. He was maybe ¾ of a mile away and I could hear the rocks falling from under his feet as he ran across the face of the mountain. Still he would not come down but kept a third of the way up the mountain and racing across one to another and then trying to climb them but they were too steep. By this time I thought I’d lost my horse. At best he would go back the way he’d come and end up at White Water. At worst he’d wander this wilderness until someone snagged him. I prayed, knowing it would only be by God’s mercy to my stupidity that we’d catch him tonight. The thought of walking out of there, without my gear, was daunting. I prayed some more. Jur disappeared into a canyon and I thought it was close to the trail and he had gotten back on the trail the way we’d come. I jogged toward the canyon, climbing higher all the time. When I got there he was no where to be seen. I looked back down and saw nothing but thought I heard a horse snort. I kept looking and eventually saw him back down by the creek and heading to a trail that ran along it but back toward our camp and the PCT. I also saw Tom down there and yelled to him, “he’s coming your way.” I yelled “hold out your arms” and demonstrated. Though we were nearly ¼ of a mile from each other I knew the sound would carry to Tom and hopefully he’d understand. For someone who hasn’t been around horses he did it perfectly. When this strange man commanded him to “whoa” with his arms flung wide, Jur responded with a stop and Tom latched onto the halter. I let a whoop and yelled “You’re my hero” which Tom was. Tom saved the trip! Even before I could get back to them Jur was throwing his head and giving Tom a fit. We led him back to camp with one of us on each side of him. He was completely wet with sweat from his run. He probably ran 5 miles while I ran about 2 ½! I set up my tent on one side of a ditch and Tom on the other. I put Jur in the ditch between us tied to a small Cottonwood tree. It was getting dark as we climbed into our tents to get some much needed rest.

But I did not sleep well as Jur shook his head and stomped all night. I ate breakfast by the creek so Jur could graze and drink. Tom actually left before us but we soon passed him. The trail stayed right in the creek crossing it about 30 times. Jur was eating the green, lush, creek side grass. This was one of the best days for grazing and water that we’ve had. The whole day was a climb as we traveled “up the creek.” We had lunch at a well used campsite. I was totally out of water so got one liter out of the creek there. Jur ate his feed off a flat rock. After lunch a branch tore my pack and I lost my sleeping bag and had to go back almost a mile to retrieve it. The trail up to the top was very loose and the edge eroding in many places. They also made some stone steps and in one spot made stone pavers for an 8 foot incline. Not good for a horse! There were several rock slides of small and very loose rocks that made for bad footing. Many of the gullies were big rocks over 12” and that made for even worse footing for a horse. On one of them Jur slipped and went to his knees but seemed to be okay. (Later I found he had swelling in an ankle and that Susan had taken a fifty foot fall with her horse in this same area.) Another gully was so bad I got off and moved rocks before leading Jur across. It was after 6 o’clock when I rode into the Wildhorse Campground off the Heart Bar Trail and met Ralph and several other equestrians there for the weekend. We met Phil and Melinda who told me about some of the trail up north.

I took Saturday off and we shared blueberry pancakes with Dan, the Forest Ranger. Dan had been the ranger there for two days. Then we spent the day going into Big Bear City for me to get an Internet connection, doing laundry, and picking up supplies at the Post Office. When we got back I trimmed Harmony’s hoofs and Ralph repaired equipment.

On Sunday we were up at 5:30 and Ralph fed the horses. I ate, got Harmony saddled, and was on the trail at 6:55. It was 4 miles back to the PCT and we got there at 8:15. Once we got on the PCT we almost immediately came upon a huge down pine. It was in a steep area but I thought we could get around it on the down side (the way the hikers had been going). So I got off and led Harmony down the slope and he did great. There was quite a bit of bad edge but Harmony responded well and got around them all. We passed a hiker, No Pain, in the morning who was resting and never saw him again. Then we went by the zoo that houses bears and tigers not 50 feet from the trail. Harmony was tense but did fine. We also passed one snake in the day, a harmless one. We got to Onyx Summit (8449’) at 10:30 and I topped off my one used water bottle there at the water cache and registered. We climbed again and traveled a ridge. I met up with Ben and Abby who had helped me cut trees on Fuller Ridge three days before. They were right behind me the rest of the day. I arrived at the Hwy 18 Trailhead at 5:15 and enjoyed the cache there and a visit with Ben and Abby. When Ralph arrived just before 6 we loaded up Harmony and gave Ben and Abby a ride to their Inn at Big Bear City.

The next morning Ralph drove back to the Hwy 18 Trailhead. He helped me saddle and pack Harmony. After a kiss goodbye, Harmony and I crossed Hwy 18 and headed north again on the PCT. Once we were on the north side of Big Bear Lake there were beautiful views of the lake and Big Bear City. There were several big trees down that we worked our way around. Around two o’clock we encounter a trail crew made up of young people earning money through President’s Obama’s Incentive Program (like the old CCC, Ralph says). They were widening the trail and clearing it of rock – a welcome sight. I thanked them and they complimented Harmony. The crew leader yelled “Clear the trail, rider coming through.” The young people seemed happy to see their work have some fruition. They are with the San Bernadino National Forest Association. I told ranger William B. about the bad dead fall I had passed. He took the GPS reading and said he would get it cleared. After that I tried to keep Harmony moving but still hiker, SuperDave, caught us. He hiked behind us down to Van Dusen Road. Right before the road there was a wooden walkway for the hikers (too weak for a horse). So I was trying to get Harmony to cross the little patch of water. He was having no part of it. Then SuperDave walked up and the sound of his trekking poles convinced Harmony to leap across the ditch. He made a flying leap and thankfully missed me. Later in the day when I was again trying to get Harmony down into water to drink hiker Princess Leah came upon us. Before Harmony got down to the water he went down on all fours like a dog who lays down to drink. He did this twice and then finally put his nose in the water. Princess Leah and I walked together down to the Spring Creek Camp. She stopped there to eat her dinner and I pushed on. I wanted to make another 5 miles so I would have half the distance the next day. Another couple of miles I came upon Jack. (He was the same hiker that I saw at the Black Mnt. Parking area taking a nap.) He, too, wanted to make some more miles and we agreed to push on to Holcomb Crossing. I told him to grab onto Harmony’s tail and we’d pull him. We camped right after Holcomb’s crossing, right along the creek. A really beautiful spot. Jack was beside the trail at a tree base and I was on a perfect flat spot and Harmony was creek side in between some logs that acted as a corral. I highlined Harmony between two trees after giving him opportunity to drink. I fed him while I set up camp and got done just at dark. Then Jack and I sat up, he made me a cup of spearmint tea and I showed him a slideshow of pictures. At 9:44p I said I needed to call it quits and Jack agreed. After checking Harmony, who seemed quite content to be at rest, I fell to sleep.

My breakfast was a raisin bagel and cream cheese. Said goodbye to Jack at 7:07 and ride on. It is another cloudy day so not too hot. I wear my fleece until 11am. Not a mile down the trail I see the track head almost straight up eight feet. I get off and lead Harmony up it. It takes a tremendous effort on both our parts. When I get up there, there is NO trail! So I tie Harmony and have a look around and see what looks like a trail on the OTHER side of the creek! Sure enough I missed it entirely and made this dangerous climb for nothing. That will teach me to doubt such a move. There are some dangerous spots on the trail but generally the trail has a very slight incline. So I drag a log across the track that I mistakenly followed hoping to help those behind me. In the meantime Harmony decides to go into the creek while still tied to a tree on the bank. So I quickly untie him and ask him to get over to the bank so I can get in the saddle and not in the creek. He cooperates and we cross the creek, me completely dry, and start again on the PCT. At 11am I come to the bridge over Deep Creek and we start following this long canyon and creek. It is after 2 when we get to the Deep Creek Hot Springs and there is a nude young man with a pack back. I am uncomfortable but want to at least offer Harmony a drink. I continue up the trail. But I was not even a mile and still had not seen any signs for the PCT. I began to wonder if I’d taken the right trail as there were many to choose from down at the hot springs, probably made from all the day visitors. I got out map and book and it looked like I was right. I know I was still going in the right direct, north westerly. I just started praying that if I was not on the PCT that it would merge with it because I was not going back to the hot springs and asking. It was 4:55 before I got to the Deep Creek dam and was sure I was still on the PCT. I rode on to Hwy 173 and Ralph picked me up there to take me to Silverwood Lake where he was camping.

On Wednesday Ralph drove Harmony and me back to Hwy 173. We left Ralph at 7:45 without boots and we were able to trot the majority of the time until the Lake. The ride around the Lake itself is beautiful but long. The views of the Lake are great but the reflection is great too (hard on the eyes). I called Ralph when I first got to the Lake thinking we were near but we actually had miles to go. We arrived in camp at 2pm and there was Ed, a electric pole surveyor. He called himself a “pole whisperer.” We had a nice chat and then Ralph and I packed a picnic lunch for the Lake. We took Ech and went to the beach with our chairs. We sat and ate cheese and crackers and then Ralph and Ech played in the water. I just waded. It was so relaxing I was falling asleep in the chair. We stayed about two hours and then got showers, me in the camper and Ralph in a hose in the parking lot. Then we loaded up again and drove to Hesperia so I could do some work and get e-mails. On the way we spotted a hiker and I knew it was Jack from the night before. So Ralph and I turned around and I jumped out and yelled to him. He said he hardly recognized me all cleaned up. I told him how far he still had to go and did he want to continue so late in the day or go back to our camp. We could bring him back to this spot in the morning. He said he’d like to end his day and go to our camp. So we loaded him into the truck. Then when he heard we were headed to Hesperia he asked to go along. So we all went. They dropped me at a Starbucks and they went to a Mexican restaurant and brought me back dinner. I worked on the computer till 7:30 and then we all went to camp giving Jack barely enough light to set up his tent in. We fed the horses and called it a fun and long day.

On May 21 I finished Section C and 345 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail. I rode Harmony out of Silverwood Lake. As I was saddling up a hiker came by. Shell introduced himself and then hiked out when I rode out. We spent the whole morning together. He either tailed on Harmony or led the way downhill when he nearly jogged. He had made his own pack and the whole thing only weighed 11 pounds. He said he was frugal and did not plan on spending much. We had a great time riding and hiking to I-15 and the McDonalds there. Along the way we met and passed SuperDave. He was nursing blisters and sitting in the shade. We had a tremendous downhill along a ridge before getting to I-15. The Mc Donalds was before the underpass the PCT uses. So I met Ralph at the McDonalds at 12:00. We unsaddled Harmony and loaded him into the box with Jur with more hay. We got chicken sandwiches in McDonalds and met more hikers. It is a huge hang out for the hikers. Many stay several hours. We stayed till 1:30 and it took me until 2:30 to saddle and pack Jur. Shell had stayed at McDonalds so we were alone on the trail again.

 NEXT: Great two day ride with a friend!

 So many trails - So little time!

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