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Archives-June
Where we've been while you were sleeping.


The second month of Adventure !  Here is what we wrote earlier, with the conclusion on the Adventure page.


06-30-07  The rest of Utah 06-18-07  Zion & Bryce

06-11-07 The Grand Canyon

06-07-07  The National Parks 06-04-07 Canyon de Chelly 06-01-07 New Mexico

June 1, 2007   New Mexico

May 30: We got into Santa Rosa, NM at eight pm and stopped at a Denny’s to eat. So we got to Santa Rosa Lake State Park in the dark. Fortunately the primitive camping was at the front gate and we easily found it and the horse pens. In ½ hour we were all set for the night. We are really getting quick at our camp set up. Of course, already having  dinner and a shower helped. We were in bed at 9:30! The next morning we were in Albuquerque - for 17 exits! I did not know it was so BIG! And the temperatures climbed quickly. From one side of the pass to the other it climbed 5 degrees. Do you know, all their expressways through Albuquerque are painted a clay-peach and sky blue colors? And many of the expressway walls have a mountain profile etched onto them. Very nice!

       

We drove to Sky City, NM and toured the Acoma Pueblo as recommended by Ron C. (Thank you Ron!) Settled in the 1300s, the pueblo was built on top of a 70 acre mesa in a valley surrounded by rock mountains. It was not built as a fortress but rather because the Indians believed their spirits to be strong there and thus it was the best spiritual and physical place to be. They have a fabulous view of Mt. Taylor to the west (in center of photo) where their fourteen clans often joined with other pueblo Indians. In the late 1500s the Europeans started arriving and not peacefully. Our tour guide, Alexander,  was very informative and enthusiastic. He explained much of the misinformation and legends that are told, not necessarily accurately. Rather than take the tour bus down we opted to hike down the stone steps used for centuries by the Indians. One other tourist hiking down commented on the way of life represented here. Alexander had explained that they believe that the children should be raised with song and so they are never talked to in a loud or raised voice. The voice is always kept in a song like range and thus the children are always surrounded by song. He also gave the example of elders teaching the younger and that the elders are responsible to pass the history of the people on to the younger. So the grandparents will gather their grandchildren around them, especially on important celebration dates, and tell the history of the Acoma people. But if one child chooses to play with a toy and others choose  to run and chase one another, they are not reprimanded nor forced to listen. But those that listen are taught the history of the people. They that listen are often the ones to become the leaders of the Tribe because they do “listen” and thus come to know the heart of the people. The Acoma are a Matriarch society where the girls choose their husbands rather than the other way around or mutually. Because, without the mother, life does not go on, the Acoma honor women highly. Only women own property and pass on the houses to their daughters. No one is elected but rather appointed and then for only one year. Some of the Acoma people (about 35 families) still live atop their mesa, the old mixed with the new. Can you spot our truck and trailer in this last photo?

We decided to camp at Bluewater Lake State Park in Prewitt, NM rather than driving on to AZ. I liked the idea because I wanted to ride in NM and we have yet to go to the Zuni Pueblo. Bluewater Lake State Park is 7 miles off I-40 so it is not a bad drive though it is a climb and then a decent on the other side. But the park is easy to find and, though we do not see where “equestrian camping” is, we pull into a electric  site with water across the road within reach of our hose. We haven’t been there long when someone drives by (turns out he lives just outside the park) and admires the horses and warns us of lions, wild dogs and bears. At six o’clock we saddled up the horses and rode down and around the far side of the lake. We climbed the hill on the far side of the lake and followed the rutted road till we could see the lake end. Once again we dropped down to the lake shore. We had noticed a herd of horses, a mare with a new foal was the first to notice us. But soon we became aware that the stallion must have taken note of us too. I kept commenting that I saw no fence between us but it was not until I saw the stallion racing toward us that I was sure there was not. Ralph got pretty concerned and asked what we should do. I said we should probably leave the area. . . rapidly. So Ralph led the way at a fast trot. Jur and Silver Girl were happy with the pace because we were headed back. The stallion kept coming and even I was getting concerned. Here we had prepared for mountain lion and bear but not a wild stallion! But we finally rounded a bend and we could not see him. When I next got a glimpse of him he had stopped. I don’t know whether he was after us to chase us off or to capture Silver Girl for his harem.

We find it interesting that the terrain changes about every 30-40 miles. Different flora. We drove out to Zuni, NM the next morning to be slightly disappointed that it was not as tourist friendly as the Acoma Pueblo. The Zuni Pueblo is in the heart of the community and has no parking nor access. We tried and got in a jam, scrapping the bottom of the camper. The last disappointment was that we never saw the native bakery we were recommended. So after browsing the visitor center we went back out to I-40 we drove and headed to Canyon de Chelly, Arizona.

 


June 2-4, 2007  Canyon De Chelly

Friday, June 1, we arrive at Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Arizona. A month before our departure this was not in the plans but Mr. W. Critchlow highly recommended it. Mr. Critchlow has been a tremendous help over the years and influence for this trip. So I went to work on making this canyon in NE Arizona part of our trip. I found Spider Rock Campground for us and the horses. Up on top of the mesa, the campground has water trucked in and no electricity. The elevation is 7900’ and Ralph has shortness of breath and I have a nose bleed. We set up camp in the afternoon and that evening take a walk out to the rim. It is worth the walk. The next morning we ride down the same trail but kept on going following the cliff edge. Some great views so we did a lot of stopping and picture taking. We ride 2 miles just short of Sliding House Overview. Gizmo must have gotten some old, bad hay and horse poop I cleared away from the horses as he was sick all day. (See Gizmo’s story.) We also drove to various lookouts that afternoon.

On Sunday, we planned to go to church. So down to the valley we went. Everywhere there are animals loose on the road; horses, cattle, sheep, and goats wander at will. We could only find one church and it said service at 11. So off to the Best Western parking lot we went to kill time while I  get on the Internet. I spent about 50 minutes getting and answering e-mails (thank you for writing). Ralph went in the gift shop and bought a book on turquoise. Then we went back to the Church which still only had one vehicle and no people, so we went back to camp. At 3 we headed out in the truck again. Went back to town, Ralph with laundry and I, the web update. Then we went out to Spider Rock Overlook and got pictures. We liked that overlook the best.

When we got back to camp, James Y., Howard’s cousin, was waiting for us. We made arrangements for his guiding us into the canyon to Spider Rock in the morning. At 8 am Monday we were at the visitor’s center to meet James and sign him on as a guide (according to National Monument guidelines). Then he followed us back to camp to pick up our horses to add to his and go to the community corral. No sooner were we saddled up than a yearling gray colt (one of those loose range horses) started following us down the trail for a mile. The trail down into the canyon was rocky and steep. It was highlighted with the Cliff Rose. The Dine People (Navajo) have a word for this flower that translates “diaper” because they used the petals in bedding for its softness and fragrance.

James Y. was an excellent guide as we rode in Bat Canyon to the base of Spider Rock. This is where Spider Woman originated from. The Dine People believe she came from the earth as did they and showed them her web and thus they became weavers. Navajos believe that their home is the earth and that their skin color is from the color of the earth. Their name, the Dine, means five fingered, and is not just them, but all people. They are one with all. They are very family oriented and Saturday and Sunday is family “at home” days. After the work week it is set aside for the family. Navajos can trace their ancestry back to India. They think they originally came across the Bering Straits and came down from Alaska, where one of the tribes still live (it is believed because the language is so similar). Another group split off and went south and became the Apache People. Many Navajos still live in a Hogan. It is built of pine logs and chinked with mud. The roof is a cross section of logs with a layer of bark over the logs before the mud is put on top. In the center of the roof they leave a hole for ventilation and light. In the winter the smoke from the wood fire rise through the hole. It is built in a circular fashion with a dome shaped roof. The floor is left earthen as Mother Earth, the dome is Father Sky, and the walls are all living things. The door always opens to the east, greeting the new day and new life. Early in the morning the door will be opened to let in the cool night air and after the sun rises, the door is closed, enclosing the cool into the Hogan. The Canyon de Chelly is 165 sq miles and is at the center of the Navajo Nation which is 485 square miles. It is within the four scared mountains and is a spiritual place to both the Navajo and other tribes. The Ancient People, the Anasazi, left their mark as petroglyphs in the canyon. The canyon is still home to many families during the growing season. In the winter they return to the mesa and city for their children to attend school. The school in Chinle (Shin-Lee) has 3000-4000 students and a graduating class of about 400/year, making it one of the largest in the USA.

We got back to the trailer at 3 and enjoyed coca cola with James. Then we got in the truck for another vista tour; out the north rim to the ruins of the Navajo Fortress. We stopped first at Antelope House Overlook and on the walk way met Harriet and Sam J. from Minneapolis, MN. We stopped for a ½ hour chat about the canyon. This picture is of the Sliding House Ruins.

Arizona is not all desert but this mesa is high desert with lots of sage brush and cacti with pinons. The wind kicks up every afternoon making for a hot, dusty afternoon. Running short of water and high on dust, we left Canyon de Chelly and headed to the Petrified Forest.


June 4-7, 2007  The National Parks, AZ

On June 5 we drove out of Spider Rock Campground. In Chinle Ralph stopped and bought coffee and cake. Gizmo refused any, indicating how poorly he is still feeling. We pulled into the Petrified Forest National Park and Painted Desert at nine. We not only went through the visitors center but also the Painted Desert Inn where we parked and hiked down the Kachina Lookout Trail to the desert floor to see the petrified wood. This is the trail you can horse ride down into the Wilderness Area. We did not ride because of Ralph’s knee and saddling the horses for such a brief hike (maybe ¾ of a mile) and then just desert riding would not have been worth the work. They are very animal friendly so we took Gizmo who seems to be improving as the day goes on.

 Back on I-40W we took a 12 mile round trip out to the Meteor Crater Natural Site. This is privately owned land with a visitor’s site. About 50,000 years ago, at a speed of 26,000 miles per hour, 150’ diameter iron-nickle meteorite weighing several hundred thousand tons hit the then flat plains of the North American continent. With an explosive force greater than 20 million tons of TNT the meteorite excavated a giant bowl like cavity 700 feet deep and 4000 feet across, displacing large blocks of limestone several miles away. Got a picture of one the size of our truck body.

Again on I-40W we saw the turn off for Walnut Canyon National Monument. This is a wonderful cliff dwellers’ monument where you can actually enter some of the sites. It is a cliff side walking tour so you have to be okay with heights. We enjoyed it immensely and were amazed at the number of dwellings! Ralph is calling it one of the hidden jewels of our trip, unplanned but a great find. Next we made a stop at the Wupatki Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument which features a 1000’ volcanic cone. Then we headed for the horse camp.

After meeting Robert, the campground host of Little Elden Equestrian Camp in the Coconino National Forest, we selected site #13 and were glad we did. A bad wind kicked up (with 60 mph gusts) while we were there. We were at the far end of the one way campground and so had less drive by dust and less dust from other horses. There was plenty as it was. We also had water right outside our camper though it was for multiple sites. And there was no campsite directly across from this site so no one to look at or impede our view. I suspect we would have loved the place if not for the wind.

One of the gusts in the night woke us up with it’s moving the trailer (we later found out it ripped our bathroom vent cover off the trailer). And it died overnight somewhat. We decided to get Gizmo checked. So Ralph took Gizmo to a vet while I took Jur for a ride. Jur and I rode out Elden Springs Trail to Shultz’s Tank, a dried up pond made to water cattle. Then I talked to a biker and he put me on the right track to get to Little Bear Trail. Elden Springs Trail was among the towering Ponderosa Pines while Little Bear was on the mountains edge at 8000’ and spectacular views. Fortunately the wind gusts were not on that side of the mountain or the gusts might have blown us off. At one point I turned on the GPS just to get my elevation. I was at 8352.’ At another point we came upon a hummingbird feeding on cacti blossoms. After about ½ hour of eating and bird photography, we rode the rest of the way down the mountain. Ralph was there with Gizmo and I was relieved things must be okay. The vet said that he probably ate something bad and he checked out with only a slight elevation in his stool bacteria. So he is on an antibiotic (he hates taking pills) for the next ten days. With the wind still howling we decided to leave despite the beauty! So at 3:30 we pulled back on to Hwy 89N toward the Grand Canyon. The winds are pushing us around on the road but we are hoping the 180 miles will make a difference. We could not see breathing that dust for another night. We would say this was the first “bad” weather we have encountered.

We cross the Colorado River and traverse BLM (land) and then pass the Vermillon Cliffs. We started the climb at 5000' and climb to 7200' at Kanibab Visitor’s Center north of the Grand Canyon. It was 6:30 and I was doubtful whether we’d get into the Grand Canyon campground after hours so we stopped to ask where we could park. The Kanibab Lodge nor the RV Campground ¼ of a mile from it allows horses. But that entire area is the Kanibab National Forest and as the young man at the RV Campground told us, you can camp anywhere on a forest. We took Forest Service Road 461 another ¼ mile up the road. It was very level and nice under the Ponderosa Pines. We pulled past a couple of other RVs and into a space large enough for us to back into. Ralph was a little apprehensive but we have little to NO choice at this time. The place was beautiful and actually I would have been content to stay there if our batteries were not running low after ten days of constant use. If they went dead then our frig would not work. So we high lined the horses and emptied ten gallons of the jug water into their bucket (which they drank most of), fed them and blanketed them. The temperatures were dropping, it was already below 50 degrees and we were in double long sleeve layers. After we were set up for the night we went into the candle lit camper. No lights or even running water to try to conserve the batteries (good thing as it allowed the frig to run through the night). We went to bed under a sleeping bag.

On June 7 we loaded up the horses and went back to the Kaibab Visitor Center where very helpful personnel, Becky and  Jerry, showed us some great FS Roads to drive out and places to camp. We decide to go into the Grand Canyon National Park first. It is a forty-five mile drive into the park and a large portion is burned trees from a fire one year ago. Once again our America the Beautiful pass waved us in. Savings: $25. Already the pass has paid off. We still have a ten mile drive to the lodge at the rim and where all the offices are. We are looking for a horse camp in one of the most visited parks in the U.S.A., no reservations and batteries already indicating they are not servicing our frig. (Read on for our story about the Grand Canyon.)


June 7-11, 2007 The Grand Canyon National Park

The entrance to Grand Canyon National Park is a ten mile drive to the lodge at the rim and where all the offices are but we are sent to the Back Country office. This is presently a little utility trailer beside the campgrounds. The woman there calls a park ranger. Sam D. arrives and says they occasionally put people in the Civilian Corps Campground but he does not know it’s present situation. We explain ours and that we’d like to be there four days and we need water for the horses. He says he will go “check it out.“ And he calls his boss. Head Park Ranger, Dale K., introduces himself about 20 minutes later. He says we should have called ahead (but we end up being the ONLY people there). He really does not know what to do with us, he says. He asks what we “want” to do and we explain again and he asks me where I got my info (I have the whole trip from Internet research and there IS a place inside the park to camp with horses). I tell him “straight off the National Parks website.” He asks to see it so I get my trip papers. This is about 40 pages of my researched stuff forming our itinerary. He is interested in what I printed from the Grand Canyon site and goes and makes a copy. I assume he did this to get with the web manager to make corrections because he was surprised at my list of trails on the north rim that were for equine. We end up in a discussion on what the park could do to make it equine friendly. I suggested they work with the Kaibab Forest Service (which seems VERY horse friendly) and get a horse camp built with these volunteers (a group is coming in Sunday to work on trails) that could then access the North Rim. This way it would keep the horse rigs out of the park (too much traffic for us anyway) yet still give horse people access. He was very receptive to the idea and mentioned bringing it before the Forest Service District Ranger. Sam returns to say there is room for us at the CC campground and he will even “escort” us over there. (I’m telling you, I am a magnet for Federal Officers but sometimes it‘s good!) So our Back Country Permit consists of me writing down our name and address on Dale's clip board and off we go following Sam. A police escort! Good thing, as the CC Campground is through the North Kaibab Trailhead parking lot and up a dirt road at the back of it that the mules use to go back and forth to their barn everyday. It is NOT obvious and the gate is locked at night (I think that is what the “permit” is for - the lock combination!)

When we got to the campground there was a group of scientist packing up to head out into the field for 5 days. We had a chat with a couple of them and then we had the whole place to ourselves - for THREE days! It does not get much better than this: one of the busiest National Parks with campgrounds needing reservations 1 to 2 years in advance and we have one entirely to ourselves! Not only that - it is the only water spigot in the park and the weather is some of the best in years they tell us. It was cool enough that night (and the next) to blanket the horses but it was also delightful for riding and hiking. After setting up, Ralph & Gizmo worked on the generator to get it running so we could charge the batteries. The problem was the muffler insisted on laying down on the job. So he spent a lot of time improvising to get it to work so our frig would. We disengaged the trailer to take the truck to the rim overlook. So Ralph and I and Gizmo went driving out our locked compound to the North Rim where we photographed (along with many others) one of the clearest sunsets in a long time. Ralph kept repeating how blessed we were. Ralph had to carry Gizmo most the time because we found out dogs were not allowed on the rim trail. Gizmo loved it though. We got back to camp to see the deer out for evening grazing. They were quite unafraid.

The next morning it was 49 degrees and I got dressed for a ride. About 9:30 I rode Jur down to the mule corral and the gal there directed me out behind the mule barn. I rode the Uncle Jim Trail (5 miles) and then at the parking lot crossed Hwy 64 and picked up the Arizona Trail for two miles out. The Uncle Jim Trail makes a nice loop out to the rim for a nice half way point and a look out over the canyon. The Arizona Trail starts directly across the street from the North Kaibab Trailhead. It starts with ½ mile through the woods and then runs along side a big open meadow (no camping) that was once the front door to Uncle Jim’s place. He was an early 20th century park ranger who boasted killing 700 mountain lions. Jur and I checked out Uncle Jim’s old home site (a cave) and the trailhead to Widross Trail. Unfortunately the trail went through a lot of the burned area and so I turned around and came back to camp.

The third day we both saddled up. Gizmo had to stay in the camper as we were riding down into the canyon. We rode out to the mule staging area and verified that it was a good time to head down (10am). We rode the North Kaibab Trail down to the Supai tunnel, about 2200’ down according to my GPS. Jur and Silver Girl did great. (In the picture with a bit of Jur‘s head you can just see the trail down below us.) It was much less rocky than the Uncle Jim Trail, from the use I suspect. Though Ralph was very apprehensive on the way down due to the number of hikers we were encountering, he was glad he did the ride. He said he wanted to say he rode the canyon and he did. The trail is mostly four feet wide and many places are very sandy and others have wide stair steps. It is very doable for a well trained, well mannered horse, though they say they do not get many. We talked to a large horse club that came down on the 60 mules. Most of them have horses and were envious of us being able to this with ours. Many admitted they would NOT do it with their horse and we agreed that you have to “know thy horse.” They also admired how fit our horses were and that they were doing it barefoot. We also met the Duncan family who were hiking down and back up. Kelsey is in her last year at college and is on the equestrian team. Her dream is to have a horse of her own and I encouraged her to keep the dream and told her I had the same and did not get my first horse until I was 30 years of age. Ralph and I thoroughly enjoyed riding the North Kaibab Trail. All the hikers were very courteous and the mule wranglers were very helpful. What a great day and I’ve got one more day to see all I can of this Grand Canyon!

The next day Ralph decided to do our laundry - while I stayed behind working on the computer with the generator going. After about two hours a horse trailer rig pulled in and the guy leans out the window and says “I’ve come all this way to the Grand Canyon to get away from generators.” I burst out laughing because we feel the same way and I told him so and the only reason we were running it was because of a little emergency called low batteries. I explained that after ten days in the wilderness our batteries were run weak and needed recharging and they were lucky enough to arrive just when we were recharging them. I further explained that Ralph would get there momentarily and turn it off. Phil introduced himself and said he did not mean to “tell” me to turn off my generator. I told him, “don’t worry, I did not take it that way!” Ralph arrived in minutes and met Phil and Nancy L. We ended up enjoying a fine evening with them around the campfire. Phil was retired from butchering and now teaches computer technology and Nancy is a CPA. They, their four dogs and two horses, were from Phoenix and would be joined on Friday by others there to help the Park maintain the trails. I would have loved to join them but we had places to go and people to see.

We decided to leave our Hilton on the Hill at the Grand Canyon. It was our scheduled day to leave but I wanted to try the campground at North Timp Point in the Kaibab National Forest. This campsite is on the rim but with trees and 25 mile one way drive in - on a dirt road. Another great site and easy high line for the horses. The Kaibab National Forest is beautiful and I would love to ride it. At 5:30 the next morning I was out on the rim. The sunrise was nothing spectacular but still awesome anyway you look at it. By seven we had backed out of the campsite, loaded Jur and Silver Girl and headed out. Shortly after starting down the road I spotted one of the rare Kaibab Squirrels. They are bigger than the eastern cousin, with a big white tail, longer ears with white tuffs on the ends of them. I wish I had told Ralph to stop so I could get a picture but did not think of it fast enough. I spent the rest of the 25 miles looking for another!

We stopped at the Kaibab Lodge for breakfast. They are well known for their baked goods and their breakfast was fine too. There is also the very nice Cameron Trading Post at the Lodge run by a family. They have excellent authentic Navajo rugs and jewelry. We were especially impressed with John Anderson’s polymer clay work. He makes fantastic creatures that are very intricately detailed. Not painted but the colored clay is actually cut and put together to make the designs! I resisted the very nice frog. On to Utah which is a great area for bicyclists but we thought these were real diehards! We saw them first in the Grand Canyon Park and then again here, outside Kanab already 80 miles and it was midday. I just had to hang out the window and cheer them on like I was at one of my brother, Glenn's triathlons!

On to Kanab, Utah and the Paria Adventure Ranch. Easton Tolley put us next to a building where we could plug in for electric. There were showers and water for the horses which we put in a one acre pasture. By one o’clock we set up, cleaned up (the trailer) and hooked up. Clouds rolled in (very unusual) and it cooled down to 86 degrees. At 4:30 Ralph and I and Gizmo we rode out of the Ranch and followed a dry creek bed and from the creek bed climbed up on the mesa to the southeast of the ranch. From there we had a fabulous view of the sounding areas and our own camping spot. We planned to see Zion National Park the next day.


June 11-18, 2007  Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks

We drove to Zion National Park with Gizmo from Paria Adventure Ranch for a day. We had a bit of confusion at the entrance when I could not find the America the Beautiful Park Pass. But after a thorough search of our messy but organized truck, we found it. We started by hiking the Canyon View Trail right before the mile long tunnel into the body of the park (east entrance). The tunnel was built in the 1920s and it is narrow and dangerous for today’s big trucks, buses or rigs so all traffic is stopped to allow each direction a turn through the tunnel. Originally the Mukuntuweap National Monument, the park is another landmark of geological showpieces. At one of these we met George and Charlotte P. I noticed George taking pictures of Charlotte and offered to take one of the two of them and even recommended the spot we had just taken Gizmo’s picture (see Gizmo‘s page). George had a Jesus belt buckle and we got to talking about God’s magnificent work here and elsewhere in the world and how blessed we are to be enjoying it. They also showed us around their wonderful touring van, complete with cooker, frig and shower and potty. It was one of the best designed campers of any size we’ve seen.

After leaving the park we started stopping a gift stores to find a patch. Shortly into The Trip Ralph suggested we buy patches from each place and jean jackets to sew them on. We did not find the jackets until here in Kanab and by now we had about 8 patches. (This picture of Ralph’s jacket is a couple of weeks later. He did all his own sewing.) Once we found our patches we ate at the Thunderbird Restaurant in Zion and had their homemade pie. Ralph had the apple with rum sauce and I had coconut cream. Very good. Then on the way back to camp we saw signs for the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park and decided to check it out. Wow, another gem. Really PINK sand dunes and a great campgrounds that caters to ATVs. Our nephew David K. would love this one! Lots of wheeling around in the dirt!

The next morning we headed to Bryce, Bryce Canyon National Park that is. We got all packed up and went to load the horses and they would not be caught. After a few minutes SG came but not Jur. So I started working Jur in the two acre pasture. It was blazing hot and the sand made it hard going. I was getting more of a workout than Jur. He was paying me not one wit of attention. Some people arrived from CA called Outdoor Tours and started videoing Jur. They must have filmed him for about 20 minutes. I still could not get him to pay me any attention but he looked beautiful running around with his mane and tail flying. I finally had to give up on the training and just catch him so I could shower and we could go as planned. When I came out of the shower, Dave (Easton’s Dad) hailed me and came over to talk. We slowly made our way to the trailer but continued talking. Ralph had joined us, and Gail, Dave’s wife, came looking for him to eat lunch. So we said our goodbyes and loaded the horses and headed to Bryce Canyon by way of Kanab. We got to Kanab at one o’clock and found a hot spot for me to connect to the Internet. I wanted to do some accounting work and download an update to our website. After almost three hours it still was not finished so I called it quits and we drove on. Some days go like that! We arrive at Bryce Canyon around seven o’clock and find our way into the Coyote Hollow Equestrian Campground in the Dixie National Forest, 14 miles from the park entrance.

The first morning, June 15, we take the entire camp down so we can trailer into the park. We get there and a ranger checks our Coggins horse papers tells us where to park and the general rules. He also reminds us no pets on the trail. Gizmo is staying at the trailer which has been a very tolerable temperature. Silver Girl is being a bad today (do they take turns?). She rears back and breaks the lead line. Then she BITES Ralph on the head! After all that we still ride out between all the holes of the endangered Utah Prairie Dogs. (Prairie dogs are not canines but rodents as Gizmo knew well. The Utah Prairie Dog is found only in SW Utah and Bryce is the only National Park with them.) We start riding the PeekaBoo horse trail (well marked and previously described by the Park Ranger). We soon encounter a line of mules and horses returning from a ride. In all, we pass about 60!

The Peek-a-Boo Trail is inside the rim of Bryce Canyon with a trail leading to it and then a 3 mile loop through it. What most visitors see from the lookout points, we rode. It has a few hairpin turns and cutbacks, but not nearly as steep as the Grand Canyon. Not even half way Ralph was ready for the lunch stop at a nice vista area and the horses were clear of the trail so hikers could get by. About half way through and under the Inspiration Point lookout, there were hitching posts, outhouses, and a horse watering trough. After SG and Jur overcame their fear of the trough they got a good drink before we head out. I took 130 pictures and could have taken more. These pictures have been some of the best taken so far. (Be sure to go to the link in the heading above to see our slide show if you want to see more.) We rode about 5 hours. We got back to the trailer and back to the Coyote Hollow Campground and reset up the camp.

First thing the next morning we went to the camp next to us to say goodbye to Kim, her son Jake, and his best friend, Andrew. They were traveling from Phoenix, AZ (now 113 degrees) to Canada in three weeks. Kim has been a school counselor for 27 years and what wisdom! She wants to start a woman’s outdoor adventure program which she would be fabulous at. I hope we get to meet up again. Maybe she’ll bring a group of woman to Georgia one day and I can take them on a riding adventure.

Once again we broke down camp. We took the horses in the trailer to the Thunder Mountain Trailhead, a mile down the road. We rode out late, 11 am, and it got hot fast. The vistas from the Red Canyon are incredible. We can see in every direction. We stopped to eat lunch with a fabulous view of south Utah. We rode on and passed White Rock and were just shy of reaching Inspiration Point when we turned around. The day had stayed clear and hot and I was sunburned. Gizmo had his own water bottle and cup and would run under shade to wait for us so he faired pretty well but there was no water on this trail for the horses.

We went back and reset up camp. Ralph went to Ruby’s Inn (the town at the park entrance) to get information on the astronomy program while I stayed behind to cook pork loin, potatoes, and cauliflower. At 8:30pm we went to the park amphitheatre for a one hour video program and then down to a parking lot where 45 telescopes were set up for our nighttime viewing. Bryce is known for it’s fabulous night sky due to lack of pollution of the air and of the light. Friday night was one of their annual astronomy festival nights and the best night so far for viewing, no moon. We could see the Milky Way (the Indians call it the backbone) with the naked eye. We also saw Jupiter and its three moons, Saturn and its rings, Venus, M13, M54, a couple of nebulas and several clusters of stars 25,000 light years away and a galaxy or two. Stars are different colors ranging from red (the coolest) to blue (the hottest). Mostly amateur astronomers with their own telescopes, the youngest was ten though I don‘t know the oldest. They came from as far away as San Diego to be a part of this program at the park (many returning year after year). It made Ralph want to get to the nearest store and buy an inexpensive telescope. It also thrilled us that God not only made the terrafirma so beautiful but also the heavenlies! We got to bed early in the morning of the 16th!

It is hard to sleep in out here when the sun is coming up at 5 and bright at 6! We piled in the truck to go see vistas at the park. But first Ralph suggested we drive up the Fremont ATV Road straight across Hwy 12 from our campground. So we did about 5 miles of 4 wheeling to a knoll with a vista in every direction. Though I took pictures it does not give you the feel of the vastness and endless forests and mountains that we are seeing. Ralph really enjoyed this side trip and calls it one more of our hidden gems which Walnut Canyon National Park and Caprock Canyons State Park and the Coral Pink Sand Dunes were also. Not full of tourists like the Grand Canyon but a beautiful spot in God’s creativity. We decide on our last day we will ride up that ridge (picture with the road in it) to that high spot. We drive on into Bryce Canyon National Park to four or five scenic overlooks. Late in the afternoon we drove to Castro Canyon and the Arches Trail. The latter has 13 arches in 0.7 mile of trail. (Pic to right)

So the next morning at 9, Sunday, we left Silver Girl on the highline in camp (she didn’t notice us leaving as she had alfalfa hay to munch) while Ralph took me and Jur over to Casto Canyon Trailhead. After dropping us off, he and Gizmo went to the laundry mat. They would pick me up at one. Jur wore boots as there was plenty of rock both above and below. The start of the trail was obviously multiuse with the ATV’s making it clear and wide. At first it followed a wash with the canyon walls on either side. Lots of hoodoos and a few small windows. We saw no one else the entire ride. We eventually joined the Cassidy Trail to the Losse Canyon Trail, through the Little Desert, a series of white sand hills. Ralph and Gizmo were waiting for me at the end of the trail in Losse Canyon.

The next morning we loaded up everything to go across the road and down Fremont Trail #02 to ride up the Mud Spring Ridge. This is what we picked out to ride when we did the four wheeling and got such a spectacular view. We actually rode along a dirt road for almost 3 miles and then climbed a ridge. Gizmo had a blast chasing jack rabbits. He tried it on a cow but one would turn on him and convince him not to. He must have run twice our 6.25 miles. Climbing the ridge we made for the top. The incline was less than some we’ve already been on so Ralph was much more comfortable with this than just weeks ago. We climbed to the top and rode along the ridge. Then at the top knoll it turned and we kept going. We were again on a two track that came up from the canyon on the other side and went to the very knoll we wanted to eat lunch at. What an incredible 360 degree view. Well worth the ride and Ralph opinioned that it was now his favorite one so far, putting Easton’s into second (Ralph likes short rides with a view).

We are 3906 miles into The Trip. We decide to start the drive to Moab. We fill up the water tanks and fuel tanks. So we’re driving up Hwy 12 toward Moab and we’re seeing the alfalfa fields being cut and baled. We need hay so we stop and ask. We are directed through a little community and to “Link” C. who is just leaving on a motorcycle. God’s timing allowed us to get 6 90# bales of alfalfa for $4.50 each! We stuff them in our third stall and after a brief chat with Link (‘cause Silver Girl is letting us know she is getting hot), off we go again. It is five o’clock.

Hwy 12 to Moab is absolutely spectacular - in a car. But pulling a thirty foot rig with animals - it is white knuckle. With 8 and 10 degree inclines most the way it was a long pull even without the cows in the road. It even got Gizmo on his feet to look much of the time. If that was not the continental divide I hate to go over the divide! After four hours in mostly first and second gear we knew we would not make it to Moab. We stopped in the first gas station to ask about camping with horses and were directed to Fishlake Equine Campground in Fishlake National Forest on Hwy 24W past Loa, another hour. Unfortunately we drive right past Fishlake. We get to another lake (Koosharem Reservoir) and it looks like people are camped and we are dead tired so we pull in. It is lake side and there is a cattle grating and it is totally fenced. So we set up the electric corral for the first time. I put Jur in it but leave SG ground tied. We got set up and inside just as the sky went dark. Once again we could see the Milky Way clearly and the moon rise was beautiful.

Tomorrow Moab and Arches National Park.


June 19-30, 2007 The rest of Utah: Capitol Reef N.P., Grand Escalade N. M., Arches N. P. and the Uinta Mountains and White River & Routt N.F, Colorado

June 19: We were up early to leave our improvised campground at Koosharem Reservoir and finish the drive to Moab, Utah. On our way back east on Hwy 24 we had a fabulous breakfast at the Sunglow Café in Bicknell, UT. We made some roadside stops in Capitol Reef National Park. We saw the famous Capitol Dome and then drove through historic Fruita, UT where many orchards planted by early settlers still grow and which you can still freely pick from. We were especially impressed with the Fremont River that fertilizes and waters this valley. At one we are on I-40 getting our diesel and found one of the trailer tires had an egg-like bulge in it. The first tire shop we stop at looks like a converted gas station and Ralph comes back to say we are leaving because the guy is brushing his teeth but not seeing to customers. He brings with him two of them, Joan C. and Sue L., a couple of retired school teachers who invite us to their beach house in Oregon. After exchanging addresses and best wishes we go to the second tire shop. Here, the guy gets right on changing our spare (he has no trailer tire). He charges us five dollars and we are on our way. Was that God or what? The desert heat can cause these tire bulges which then can bulge to bursting. We just crossed 70 miles of desert.

On to OK RV Campground in Moab. We pick a site and put the horses in their covered pens. After getting things set up we head over to Arches National Park. We get our patches and watch a short video in the visitor’s center and then drive the park road. First to Delicate Arch. There are over 2000 “arches” in the park alone formed by water erosion of the sandstone. Next we hike to Landscape Arch. Unfortunately the sun has gone down a bit too      much for the lighting to be the best but I still got some pictures. Back at OK RV, I went to feed the horses and there was another horse rig pulled up with “Suwannee Music Park, Live Oak, FL” painted on it. I had spoken to them last Autumn about the having the family reunion there. I went over and introduced myself and met Roy C. and Billy S., both from Kentucky. It is Roy’s brother who operates the music park which has a lovely RV and horse camp facility right on the Suwannee River. Roy is often at Suwannee helping and was actually the one I spoke to long ago. Roy and Billy’s families are on a two week riding trip. Tomorrow they have hired a guide to take them riding in the Abajo Mountains (pictured in the distance in the photo above) and invite me to join them. After consulting Ralph it is arranged. Ralph and I are amazed at God’s arrangement once again. Imagine meeting up with someone you have at least spoken with before and finding someone to ride with way out west! But it only gets better.

They arrange for Jur and I to be trailered up the mountain with Art Head, the guide. Ralph is not going and so we need our rig to stay put with him. Art is retired from heavy equipment and now trains horses and offers horse back guided trips (byo horse 801-404-4560). Along with him is his good friend, Helen Sue W., a retired school teacher and also an excellent horsewoman. Though Helen Sue has been here nearly 30 years and Art only ten, she says he knows these trails better than she. He hauls us up another 3000’ on a Forest Service Road, locally know as “the loop,” it is the La Sal Forest Loop Road #128. It is steep and winding with incredible views back down into Moab and, thankfully, paved. Until we turn right unto Greshum Road which is dirt. We go another couple of miles to a turn around with vault toilet and more incredible views. We are now where there is still snow on the ground in the shade on June 20. But Roy’s truck, a F350 dually like ours, transmission is overheating giving some concern. They are pulling a 4 horse trailer with living quarters, just a little larger than ours. We call Ralph to have him come up with our truck to pull their trailer and horses back down and play it safe. In the meantime we go out for a three hour ride. It is through Aspen and some pine on upper plateaus with incredible views. When Ralph arrives he tells us there is a corral set up in the middle of the road just past our turn off. They have their cows rounded up and are getting them branded before setting them out for a summer of upper meadow grazing. Ralph does a great job hauling the horses down and we get back to OK RV for goodbyes. Roy and Billy’s families are headed on to Jackson Hole, WY. That evening we went into Moab to walk the town. There are the usual t-shirt shops and gifts shop, galleries and eateries. One gallery was the photographer, Tom Till, and his awesome photos. A resident of Utah he has incredible photographs of the state’s beauty but also many from all over the world. He represents the incredible time and effort it takes to get absolutely awesome photos. Moab reminds us of a small Key West; small, H-O-T (though not muggy) and touristy.

We got up early the next morning and drove to Arches N. P. at 5:30 to catch the sunrise. This was recommend to us by our long time artist friend, David Yorke (Thank you David see his work at The Plainsmen Gallery & Autry National Center & Trailside Galleries.) We drove out to the Wall of Windows, Turrent Arch, and the Double Arch. It was wonderfully cool and awesome to get under the arches in the morning light. It was also our goodbye to Arches and the Canyonlands of Utah.

The next morning we headed to the Uinta Mountains and the Strawberry Reservoir for an endurance ride over the weekend. But we took a wrong turn in Price and went west and ended up in Provo, UT on Hwy 189. What a beautiful drive along the Provo River. Another treat was that we got to pull into Bridal Veil Park and adjacent Nunns Park. Nuuns Park has a five mile paved, multi-use trail that horses are welcome on. To see Bridal Veils Falls is awesome. Further along is the Deer Creek State Park with a wonderful lake for water activities. This would be a great stop for about a week. There looked to be plenty of riding in the Wasatch-Cache National Forest as well. We crossed the Strawberry River and turned left onto Forest Service Road #049 and went five miles into camp. After setting up camp I took Jur for “vetting in” and registration for the following day’s 25 mile ride.

The next morning Ralph stepped out into the 40 degree morning (we had blanketed the horses) and fed the horses. I dressed in my riding pants, tank top with a long sleeve over that. Just to get ready I also wore a down vest. Jur and I started in the back of the field but followed a group that I took some turns leading. Jur kept up a good trot most of the day. He did a great job and moved up to eighth place. The trail was hard to follow; there were multiple choices with no ribbons. It was still a lovely day for a ride in a lovely place. Another little blessing was meeting two gals from Georgia at this ride, Suzanne S. and Cindy. They were there to ride and help at the ride. We definitely want to join up in Georgia.

The next day instead of riding I helped at the vet check and Ralph helped make sandwiches. I did anything needed: pulses, duck tape boots, and run for water. The 7 member Bradley family were the real crew and also put out a fabulous turkey spread for dinner. I don’t know how they managed to do both jobs so great but they did. What a joy to be around them and hear them relate to one another. They were the winners of the Tom Thornton Family Mileage Award (in Endurance Riding) last year. After the great dinner, there was a talented guitarist, Benton Paul, to entertain us. Then Stacey, a first time endurance rider and friend of Howard’s and Louise‘s, used members of the audience to do a venquilatrist routine. It was great fun!

During the day Howard K. (the ride manager) suggested that I ride one of his horses the next day. I really wanted to ride the fifty as they were saying it was to be the prettiest trail so far, climbing up to 10,200.’ So I did ride Nate starting in the rear. The incline was gradual but constant the better part of an hour. We climbed to a fabulous view of the Wastach Mountain Range. (See riders upper left) Nate and I finished in ninth position. That evening we broke camp and followed Louise M. (assistant ride manager) home to the High Star Ranch in Kamas, UT. There is a old legend about the Wasatch Mountains. It seems there was an Indian maiden who died and was found lying on her back. Can you see her (pic on right)? 

The ranch is beautiful. We look out the door to the mountains and see white vinyl fencing and horses in the fields and it is picture perfect. Our horses are enjoying a large paddock with grass and it’s own running stream. We have electricity which makes it so convenient to use the microwave. We had a brief visit with Louise who is recovering from the work of the ride and a couple of chats with Tom C. and Winn. Tom is a retired police officer and Winn a retired nurse. They are traveling the horse event circuit doing equine and human massage. Tom has “the touch” and is a wonderful addition to the camp especially after 50 miles in the saddle at speed!

Another great thing: We had great cell phone service and Internet connection so I got accounting work done, web page updated, and phone calls made. And one of the calls was about tax season work back home in Georgia. One of the concerns about this trip was leaving two home run businesses for so long. We had to take the risk of returning to very diminished income base. So this was a welcome call about work for four of the first months of the year for me. And not only that, Ralph too, talked with a long time friend, Rob J. who may want Ralph to help with renovation work at the start of the new year. Things continue to fall into place and provision.

We say goodbye to High Star Ranch and Utah and head for Colorado. When we got in Dinosaur, CO we saw only one dinosaur. We did try the local Wal-Mart, the welcome center (where they give free maps and lots of helpful info), and the Bedrock Depot for homemade ice cream. We did not have time to see Dinosaur National Monument. We turned toward Meeker and the White River National Forest and the Flat Top Wilderness. It was 3:50 and 94 degrees.

Campground hosts, Carla and Dale S. welcome us in at Marvine Campground. The horses have pens (outside the campground itself) and we have a lovely spot (just up from the horses) which the hummingbirds enjoy too. The next morning we rode the East Marvine Trail. It is a very nice surface with little rock. It is mostly through aspen and spruce with some creeks but at what seems the top it opens up to meadows with ponds and streams. We decided this was the place to eat out lunch with plenty of grass for the horses. We encountered two hikers, one a biologist for the Forest Service Natasha G. We got to talking about trails and that I am certified in trail design and maintenance and would love to help. She promised to pass my name and info on and invited me back next year for a couple of months of work. Wouldn’t that be fun! The second morning we rode out at 9 o’clock to climb a hill on the north side. At the top was a flag with this plaque: “Thank you Lord. You made it right!” Didn't He! What incredible beauty in all sorts of design He placed for our enjoyment. It was a great view all around and looked right down on our camp amongst the trees. The next day I want to ride all the way to the Flat Tops and back -alone (they say you need two days but it looks like 30 miles), so we go to town to buy a forest map. These are topographical maps with latitude and longitude points on a grid. Using a GPS you can either enter a point and ride to it or tract where you’ve been. I would ride with map, GPS, and compass. That night I decide my route and go over it with Ralph.

Riding out at 8:30, I packed lunch, water, and camera and headed up Marvine Trail (not the East Marvine we rode two days before). The trail is a continuation of the beautiful valley. I crossed Marvine Creek and trotted through meadows trying to make good time to complete this large loop. Half way up Marvine Trail (@ 5 mi.) are the Marvine Lakes! They are gorgeous - blue, blue, blue. So clear you can see logs and boulders in the bottom. After the lakes, the climb increases as does the rock! We take it slow and easy. On the map, this is the area that follows the contour of the mountain and climbs up to the Flat Tops. Most of the trail from here to the Flat Top is narrow single track and on the side of a steep hill. At one point the lake is to my right and the mountain soars to my left. A couple of spots I can not look down it is so steep. Finally we get back into the forest and even though it is still steep, the trees give me the illusion of safety. We come to an incredible waterfall that is not indicated on the map so I name it Marvine Falls. Not freefalling but still beautiful as it tumbles over a series of rock ledges. We are going to pass over one of the pools it creates to continue. Up through a lot more woods and a couple hours after the lakes we break through the trees to the Flat Tops. It is obvious why they are named this and that we have arrived. As I was told, there are thousands of pools of water. Lots of snow is still on the ground and it is quite cool. My long sleeve shirt goes back on over my t-shirt. I see my first elk. We get to the intersection of Marvine Trail and the Lost Oyster Lake Trail where we will be turning toward the East Marvine Trail. But first lunch - for both of us before riding on. We cross a couple of miles of meadows sprinkled with ponds and ice. We are following solitary posts supported by piles of rock as trail markers. These posts stick up out of six feet of snow for snowmobile trails in the winter. It is the only way to follow the trail in the summer too as there are no tracks. We encounter a trail (unmarked) going both directions. I choose left without looking at the map because I recall all my turns are left to make this loop. This turns out not to be a good choice. The trail becomes fainter and fainter and I no longer see any sign of past horses, just elk. It peters out and I look around for it to start again nearby (as often happens) but never find another trail. I use the GPS only to find it saying batteries are weak and my back up pair is dead as well. My last reading at Marvine and Lost Oyster Lake Trail is 2.5 miles behind me which should put me very close to the East Marvine Trail I am looking for. So before I head back (I agreed with Ralph to return the way I came if I got “lost”) I look in the direction I think I should head. And there below us is a wide open meadow with BIG pond in the middle of it and elk all around it. Some are grazing and some are lying down. There are several calves. I have been told that elk will calf in a given meadow and then not move for several days while the newborn calves “get their feet.” This must be one of those. It is so beautiful that I am spellbound and do not get out the camera. Jur is content to take advantage and move along the ridge eating and walking. Slowly our great scene is hidden again and I am further from knowing where I am but much more at peace. I estimate it is after 3 pm. I am facing sleeping in the wilderness tonight or doing some serious figuring the way out of here. I get off Jur to let him graze and pull out map & compass and take some time to pray. I know Ralph is praying for me too (riding alone in a wilderness you need team support) and many others keep us in prayer for this trip. I felt a renewed strength then and after asking for wisdom took a good look at the map with the compass laid on it properly and eyeballing the mountains around me. From that I decided to ride west (by now I could clearly see which way the sun was going down). I should hit one of several trails in that direction. So I packed back up, took another swig of Gatorade (conserving for now), and rode that way. Sure enough I hit a trail and it was the same one I rode in on that seemed to be merely an elk trail. Now I stayed on it looking for signs of horses again. I passed the point I originally joined it and keep going. The trail is taking me down and in the right direction so I keep Jur moving, breaking into a trot whenever I can. I told Ralph I’d be down at 5 (giving myself 8 hours to do 30 miles) but now know I will be over that having added three hours and about 7 miles of wandering the Flat Tops. We get to a rock slide area. We had ridden across a couple of these on the way up but now the rock is blocking our trail. I had to dismount and clear enough rock for Jur to walk across. Fortunately all were small enough for me to roll or pick up. We were lower and the aspen and pine forest was thickening. We passed a waterfall but smaller than the one on the way up and that is when I realized I was not on the same trail and all I could do was hope it took me to camp. It still looked to be going in the right direction. Another 45 minutes of riding and I started to see familiar sights from two days before on the East Marvine Trail. I was headed home AND on the right trail! How cool! I got Jur into a trot every chance I had and he seemed just as willing as I to get back. We burst out of the woods and into the parking area at 6:30. Ralph said I was late but that he was glad to see me. I told him I was glad to see him too! Jur got alfalfa and grain that night and did not look like he’d gone more than a couple of miles. We'd covered about 37 miles. I was surprisingly not sore just tired. Ralph had spent the day changing the oil in the truck and bathing Gizmo in the cold stream. Hopefully Gizmo will stay clean for a day. It is nicer to travel with a clean dog.

Saturday, the last day of June, we drove out of the White River Forest and into the Routt. We went to the Freeman Reservoir campground but unfortunately it was not level and showering and sleeping was difficult. The horse pens were very old (needing repair) outside the campground so hauling water and caring for them was a hike. To add insult to injury, the flies and mosquitoes were veracious! But we were sitting beside a nice little lake that had Colorado’s native cutthroat trout available for catching and trails to ride around the lake and into the Routt Natl. Forest. That evening the sunset was to die for and I got some photos over the lake. One other group arrived with horses. Ralph talked to the driver. He has been a coal miner for 18 years. He works 8 miles into the earth; 5 miles down and 3 miles in. He does not go down a shaft but drives a full size truck down there. He works 12 hours on and 12 hours off in six day shifts (6 on, 6 off). He earns $100/hour. Anyone want this job? You would think Colorado is as clean as it is beautiful. But because of all the mining and some other pollution factors, there is a black line on the horizon and a haze over all. When you are on some mountaintops you look down to see this and the stacks of coal mining. Beauty among ashes.



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