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Archives-August
Where we've been while you were sleeping.

The fourth month of Adventure !  Here is what we wrote earlier, with conclusion on the Adventure page.

August 1-10: From Montana to Oregon by way of Idaho

We left Cindy E’s and waved to Harold on our way. We drove to Ennis and then west (north) on Hwy 287 through Virginia City and Nevada City, two historic mining towns with old buildings and machinery still intact. They were part of a nine town spread of boom silver towns in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Now they make their money off the summer tourist trade that comes to see a former way of life. Out of Twin Bridges we were on the Lewis and Clark Trail in the Jefferson Valley. Then we entered part of the Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest below Butte, Montana. This forest was not disseminated by fire but by pine beetle. Still a beautiful forest we were enjoying the cooler temps hovering between 68 and 72.° We got into Butte and took I-15 South and ended up in Dillion (out of our way - my mistake in missing a turn). We turned west again and crossed over the continental divide. This area of Montana is large rolling hills of grassland and some slight sage. When we got to Wisdom, MT I took a picture of the log dwellings that litter the state. These chinked log homes can and have endured a century. From Wisdom the Beaverhead Mountains climb up the west side of us while the Deerlodge Mountains wall us to the east. We follow the Big Hole River for some ways. In Jackson, right at the Idaho border, we turn north again driving up Hwy 93 toward Darby, MT. We saw a Ranger Station. It was 4:15 and they close at 4:30. I ran in and find out our campground is a two hour drive off the highway on a dirt road! We continued driving toward Darby (as there was another camp just north of town). As we got close, I call Lacey O., (a friend, Shorty, had given me Lacey's name and number months ago in Georgia). He said “to come on” to his place. Turns out, he is another 6 month Georgian and 6 month Montanan. His ranch home is on the Bitterroot River in the Bitterroot Valley surrounded by the Bitterroot Forest. The horses have plenty of grass and water. We went to make ourselves hamburgers when Lacey came out and invited us in for meatloaf. Much tastier, Ralph and I had an easy night for sure!

Next day Ralph decided to tackle the water tank under our kitchen sink where we had a constant leak since early in the trip. Sitting still with available water and electricity made such a job possible. The nearest big town with an RV supplier, 70 miles away, is Missoula. Our ten gallon tank is covered in rust and Ralph and Lacey had a hard time finding the leak. Under pressure, they found it was NOT leaking from the tank but the connection. So everything was put back together and by three it was working without a towel under the sink soaking up water. Nice not to pay $468.95 and drive 70 miles to Missoula to get a new water tank. At 6:15 we were eating a Redneck Surf and Turf dinner: store bought crab salad and hamburgers. The side was baked beans. Yummy! After dinner I got out the Bitterroot Forest map and started looking for a trail to ride the following day. There were so many choices and all with questions since there were fires in the area.

Lacey showed us where to ride the Coyote Coulee Trail. The trail was mostly through a very sparse old lodge pine forest. It consists of two loops connected by a one mile linear trail. We spotted a black bear cub in some bushes on the second loop. Another mile and there was the biggest bull elk we’ve seen in some trees just off the trail. We slowly approached while I took pictures. He was magnificent. After that we stopped to eat a snack before riding back to the trailer. We were back to Lacey’s just after 2 and after showers we “went to town,” not a ¼ of a mile away. First Ralph got a haircut then we walked main street. We were done with both before an hour was gone. When we got back to camp I started dinner; chicken, rice, black beans, and zucchini squash and tea. We made it all at the camper but ate it in Lacey’s dining room with him. We talked mules (which is what Lacey rides) and horses.

The next morning we rode Boulder Creek Trail. From the trailhead to Boulder Falls is 3.5 miles and it is another 7 miles to Boulder Lake (we turned around a mile short of it). Through a lot of lodge pine trees, unfortunately the trail is heavily rocked, hard going for the horses and making the ride eight hours. There is good water though and nice views. I’m sure the views would have been better without the smoke. (Besides a fire in Idaho, there was one beginning that day in Darby that we did not know about yet.)

Sunday Lacey trailered Pat (Lacey’s friend) and me over to Lake Como and dropped us off, Pat with the mule, Long-Legged Sally, and I with Jur. We were not well matched as Sally could out walk Jur but we managed. We rode just over three hours and Lacey came to get us. Ralph made pork chop dinner for all and we ate inside Lacey’s again. At about 8 Ralph called me outside with the camera. A fire on the other side of Hwy 93 was flaring up. You could hear the helicopters running the water. We watched  with Les W. and his family who owns the ranch next to Lacey and another in CA he invited us to (south of San Francisco). (Les worked on the Manhattan Project as did my father but their paths did not cross as Les is a chemist and my father is an engineer and they were at different locations.) Then Ralph and I walked out front to the Ranger District Office where we talked to fire fighters from Maryland. After 5 minutes they were called to duty and headed out. They had told us the fire had spread from 2 acres to 70 in just over five minutes and they would be walking in to work it. Ralph and I prayed right there on the street for their safety and the fire’s containment. (On August 13 a fire also erupted in The Boulder River Valley, MT where we had camped below Big Timber, MT. We were blessed to see these areas before the fires.)

On August 6 we said our goodbyes to Lacey thanking him for his generosity in taking in the wayfaring stranger. We started up Hwy 93 to Missoula to pick up Hwy 12 West to Idaho. I had been told Hwy 12 is beautiful and that is so. It also follows the Lewis and Clark Expedition route. When we got to Lolo Pass we stopped at the Ranger Station on the Montana/Idaho line. The station has some historical points and we learned more of the area. It amazes us what the settlers went through to settle this land. It is estimated for every mile west gained, 17 emigrants died. Another way it has been put is that there is a grave every 200.' It was not just Indians they were encountering. Wolves and panthers (mountain lions) were so prevalent that many found it hard to sleep with all the howling and screeching. Then there was the difficulty of finding the way, many having to cut their route through a thick forest day by day or tie their wagons to trees and lower them by ropes down a steep incline. That we could relate to as we were about to climb some more steep ones ourselves.

Settled in the beautiful Clearwater National Forest’s Wilderness Gateway Campground, the next morning we saddled up to ride to the Lewis and Clark Historic Trail. It would be a 7 mile ride up the Sherman Creek Trail to No Seeum Meadows. So, with Gizmo on the saddle we crossed Hwy 12 to a trail that climbed straight up. After a mile of this even I was getting uncomfortable. Ralph had gotten off to walk across a spot he felt uncomfortable with and I was getting unsure of the entire trail. I could not believe this would be a recognized forest trail it was so steep. We finally got to a wide spot and I gave Jur to Ralph and walked ahead to take a look. It was not good and we decided to go back down. So we hand walked the horses and we slipped and slid our way down. We were almost to the bottom when we met a backpacker coming up. He introduced himself as Darren and he, too, was staying in the campground. He was hiking up to No Seeum Meadows to meet his wife, Chris, who was in the Chief Joseph Trail Ride and would be camping at the meadows that evening. So together we reviewed of our maps and we all returned to the bottom and found the correct trail. The Sherman Creek Trail was a lot less steep though it was rough and narrow at places. We were about 5 ½ miles in when the trail split to the right while the trail going straight looked very little used. So again, I went on foot to scout ahead. It narrowed to just being on the edge of the incline so we decided to take the climb to the right. It was not the official trail but someone was using it to get the climb over with and get up on the ridge and ride the ridge to No Seeum Meadows. We got up on the ridge and rode a ways but were now ready to head back. We again lead the horses over the rough spots and at one point Jur slipped on the rocks behind me (I was glad I was not on him). When I looked at him he was up on a rock that he must have scrambled to after walking off the outside edge. When we got back to camp he looked fine (but the next morning his rear ankles were both swollen).

With Jur incapacitated I was riding Silver Girl into the Selway Wilderness the next day at 10:30. Ralph and Gizmo walked me to the bridge to get a picture of me leaving. Then Silver Girl and I started up Trail #211. The incline was steady but not bad and Silver Girl moved right out. The trail climbed along Boulder Creek (there is at least one in every forest) for a mile. Some of the edges were a bit breathtaking and at one point I got off and walked Silver Girl. I was having the same trouble as Ralph: Silver Girl walks right on the edge. At the top there was a sign from 211 to 221 and the Huckleberry Meadows. I took #221 which  immediately started dropping down. It dropped down to the creek where I watered Silver Girl and got off to lead her across the rocks. The other side was well used for camping but empty. We continued on and came to hot springs 20 minutes later. Here again was camping, this time with the campers present. I joined two in the hot springs just getting my feet in. Wow! It was H-O-T! At first I could barely stand it! And after about ten minutes my feet were red. (There was a notice down in the campgrounds warning about not immersing your head in the hot springs as there is a bacteria in them that people have contracted and died from.) Someone had taken the time to gather rocks and arrange them so that the springs formed three hot tub-like pools that flowed one to another. Even with cold springs flowing into the pools they were still quite hot. (Later I decided it would have been a great ride to there and back.) After 15 minutes and quite a few pictures, I rode on. I had a time finding the trail (unmarked) heading out. Even with numerous switchbacks it was so steep I was soon off and walking Silver Girl just to keep moving. The trail climbed about 1500’ within a half mile. Already I was regretting taking it. Silver Girl and I were both having a hard climb of it as I got off to walk her guite a bit. But after the continuous climb, we came to a cross roads sign indicating Maude and Lottie Lakes which were at least in the direction that I wanted to go. So on we went. This trail too climbed, and climbed and climbed! I saw no signs of use (at least not in this year). Then when we were miles up I started coming upon trees down on the trail. I was NOT carrying a saw. Ugh! The worst came up on the ridge at about 2 o’clock. A massive pine was newly fallen and there was no easy way around. I finally choose the hillside to the right, not too steep but covered in bushes over my head. I put Silver Girl’s reins through the saddle and pulled her lead line out. (Thanks to Marsha who gifted me with a new set of rope halters and a small lead line I made we were good to go.) Silver Girl was great, pushing through behind me but not lunging or jumping on top of me. I knew she could not see her hoofs any better than I could see my feet. We were stepping  over and on old dead logs and getting tangled in the brush but moving in the right direction. I was amazed when we made it and grateful I had a horse who trusted me so well to go through that. After that we were committed. I would not like the thought of back tracking through that again. Thank God there were no poisonous snakes, ants, or other critters to worry me as well. The good news for me  was that despite no trail signs I could tell we were headed in the right direction because the angle of the sun. For several miles more we rode a ridge with a fabulous view (including the smoke from fires) before we started dropping. The decline was as bad as the incline with my saddle ending up on Silver Girl’s neck. After the fourth time on her neck I gave up and on the steeper declines got off her and ran alongside her. I was beginning to wonder if we were still on track (by now back down in the timberline) when I got to an intersection and out of the woods pops a young woman introducing herself as Nicole, a forest ranger out for a week of surveillance. She took this picture for me and verified I had another 5 miles to go. Besides the four campers at the hot springs and a father with two sons backpacking out on my first leg of the trail, she was the final person I saw in the 20 miles. When it is a posted wilderness it usually is. Out of those last five miles I ran alongside Silver Girl at least two miles of it, trying to keep the saddle on her and still make it out of there before dark. We did it. Ralph had a hot dog awaiting me and soon Darren joined us at the campsite. Jur’s ankles were back to normal and we enjoyed a lovely evening.

The next morning we were once again on Hwy 12 west and enjoying the beautiful views of the Lousha River. All along this highway are historic markers of the Lewis and Clark Trail. The three rivers, Loucha, Snake and Clearwater converge to make the Clearwater River. For many more miles we followed the Clearwater River through the Clearwater Canyon. In Spalding, Idaho we stopped in the Nez Perce National Park and enjoyed learning more about these  American people who have such a history in this area. We drove right through Lewiston, Idaho and into Clarkston, Washington continuing on Hwy 12 West toward Walla Walla, Washington where Ralph wanted a tee shirt (so did I!). Well, we drove through a corner of Washington and did NOT get a tee shirt!!! Pooh! They did not have Walla Walla Washington tee shirts in Walla Walla, Washington! What a bummer. We really had our hearts set on them! I don’t know what they would have said but Walla Walla Washington seemed good enough! We did get a pint of Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream to sooth our disappointment! A treat since we have not had ice cream (other than Dairy Queen) since we left home. So all was not lost. Then on toward Meachum, OR and Emigrant Springs State Park where we spent the night. Emigrant Springs State Park is only 14 acres but very well established. It is the site of a stop on the Oregon Trail were emigrants stopped for the spring water. The wagon ruts from the thousands of wagons over 160 years ago is still visible. The regular camp sites to the south side of the park are packed with modern day campers this time of year. And in mid September during the Pendleton Roundup it will be just as jammed. We were to the north end in horse camp. The horses had log corrals with a water source and hitching posts. Twenty-five minutes after we arrived and got the horses set up, Debbie G. pulled in with her two colts. She was traveling to friends in Idaho from her home in NW Washington and this was a layover as it was for us. We enjoyed a visit with her at our camp later that night.

August 10 we were up at 6:30 but still did not beat Debbie who was up and pulling out. We started to pack up but in the midst Bud S. walked by and we got to talking. A retired Forest Service Engineer he is now a full time RVer and is traveling with his friend Frances. She was as big a hoot as he was and we walked over to their campground for a visit. We pulled out  of camp at 9:30 and got back on I-84 going west. We stopped at the top of the hills for a scenic overlook of what the settlers saw. It is the Oregon Pass, the last 'hill" before the leg to the pacific. It was also considered one of the most treacherous as there were no trees to tie the wagons to and that made the decent dangerous and time consuming. The wagons had to be tied to trees and slowly lowered by ropes to get down steep inclines. Not far after this we saw a crew pulling a truck out of a ravine. Reminds us that the road is still as treacherous as 160 years ago. On to Pendleton where we were told by Bud about a  saddle shop not to be missed . It was Hamley’s in downtown Pendleton, OR and they make their own saddles and carry Pendleton Woolen Mill products as well. We enjoyed a look-see and then drove back to I-84 west. A lot of the small towns we are passing have ports on the Columbia River. It is no small stream at this point. We drive through Blalock Canyon in the Columbia Gorge with a train running along the river! Then the John Day Dam and around another bend - there is Mount Hood, elevation 11, 240’! It soars so far above the horizon it gives the impression of being a few miles off when it reality it is still 80 miles distant.  When we got to Gail S.’s place we put our horses in her back yard electric  paddock and gave them water and parked the trailer in her circular drive and got our own water hookup. We were all set. She was one of those who responded to my letter to the editor of Trail Rider Magazine inviting us to stay at her place while riding Mt. Hood National Forest. After dinner she and I saddled up and went for a couple hour ride along the historic Barlow Trail. Just hours after arrival and I already was in the saddle - my kind of place! Tomorrow we will take a driving tour of the Columbia Gorge. Join us then.

August 11-22: The Columbia Gorge

August 11 was our first full day at Gail S.‘s in Wamic near Tygh Valley and the Columbia Gorge. Gizmo watched from the doorway of the trailer as we drove off to sightsee. Silver Girl and Jur were munching their hay in Gail’s backyard. We drove across the Columbia River into Washington State. This is as easy as getting unto an expressway and less dangerous. We head east to the Maryhill Museum of Art. Maryhill Museum was built by railroad entrepreneur Sam Hill in 1914 initially as a residence, constructed of steel I-beams with interior steel studs, with walls, floors and ceilings of poured concrete reinforced with steel. Sam Hill said of this building “I expect [it] to be here for a thousand years after I am gone.” We were especially impressed with the lower floor’s extensive exhibit of the many artifacts of the Indian tribes of North America. Not limited to just the Indians of the Northwest, it was a nice representation of the many tribes and their differences. Another interesting exhibit is the Theatre de la Mode; 27 miniature mannequins dressed in “exquisite haute couture fashions of Paris in 1946.” Sam Hill went to Europe and sought the royalty to invest into his agricultural community development. He befriended Queen Marie of Romania, the dancer Loie Fuller and sugar heiress Alma de Bretteville-Spreckels. When the community did not succeed, Loie Fuller convinced Hill to turn his planned residence into a museum and Queen Marie traveled across the world to dedicate it in 1926. Alma de Bretteville efforts had the museum open to the public in 1940. We also drove another 4 miles to his World War I memorial. If this picture ­ looks like England’s Stonehenge, then you are not wrong. Sam Hill built a replica on the Columbia Gorge to honor those who served their country. He is also buried there. After our feasting and surfing (lunch at a pizza Wi-Fi spot), we drove another 15 or so miles to Hood River. This too was a historic trading post town and still does a brisk trade to the sojourner. We parked the Monster truck on a side street and walked main street up one side and down the other. The best find was The Gorge Dog catering to man’s best friend. We had seen the ad in The Gorge Magazine and thought they had used Gizmo for their ad. We had to get a t-shirt and then were tempted to get Gizmo an outfit too. We enjoyed the store and a visit with the great store host, Rosalyn. With the shops starting to close we knew we should be heading home. So we drove back to Gail’s as dusk was falling.

The next morning we were invited by Gail’s two granddaughters visiting from Hawaii, Mia and Kylie, for a pancake breakfast. Yum! Gail called her friend Collete to see about Collete and I riding. She arrived with her stock trailer later in the morning and we loaded up Jur, Gizmo and myself and headed down the road to Hwy 48 which  goes all the way to Portland. We stopped part way into the Mt. Hood National Forest. She knew all the trails as she used to ride cattle there! The trail took us through an immense amount of down timber of great size and old growth. We rode up to Bonney Meadows where we ate lunch in the sunshine of the meadow while Gizmo ran around with Collete’s three dogs. We rode back down and there were so many huckleberries we decided to get out Collete’s sandwich container and fill it up. We stopped several times to do so and we each came home with some fresh huckleberries. Ralph volunteered to make a hot dog dinner and the girls had baked a chocolate cake for Mia’s birthday. After dinner Neal and Joy S., neighbors of Gail’s, came over and while Gail drove her granddaughters to see the evening deer gathering, we stayed and chatted with Neal & Joy.

The next morning we decided to drive to Portland and try an unknown chiropractor for Ralph’s back which was getting bad. On the way we stopped at the Timberline Lodge  (the 6000’ elevation point on Mt. Hood). The mountain itself is so majestic and at 6000’ you still have over half the mountain above your head! Even in the middle of August the slopes are covered in snow and the chair lift is running up and down with skier and snowboarder enthusiast. Most the license plates were Oregonians but a few Californians made the drive. The Works Progress Administration under President Roosevelt put over 500 men and women (many over age 55) to work building the Timberline Lodge. Architects utilized local artists and craftsmen working with materials from the area. They provided even the tiniest decorative detail. Thus from the hand carved newel posts to upholstery and hand hooked rugs the lodge resounds with the essence of Mt Hood itself. Built in the 30s and dedicated on Sept. 28, 1937, the Lodge has served, skiers, hikers, climbers and sightseers ever since. We also got our patch, of course. After lunch we found Iron Elk Chiropractic and Dr. Craig helped both of us. There was a whole lot of popping going on! In Portland we found Pro Photo Supply with 15 minutes till closing! I bought my new camera lens and I even got to use it on Mt Hood on the way home!

Ralph read most the next day giving his back the rest the doctor had recommended. I worked on various projects, the biggest being the downloading of photos from camera to laptop. But there is also sewing, reading, laundry and bill payments to be done. That evening we joined Neal and Joy at their place two doors down for a campfire. We chatted and roasted marshmallows. Neal was retired from firefighting and Joy form the police force, they were very interesting to talk to. Though Joy rides horses she was unable to while I was there.

On August 15, Ralph, Gizmo and I headed back out sightseeing. We still had a lot to see in the Columbia Gorge. We ran a few errands and then drove across the river to Washington and the Columbia Hills State Park to see the petroglyphs at Horsethief Lake. Columbia Hills SP is 3338 acres on the shoreline of the Columbia River. The Temani Pesh-Wa Petroglyph Site was recreated at the request of the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs, the Nez Perce, the River People, The Bands of the Yakima Nation, and Umatilla negotiating with the Army Corp when The Dalles Dam inundated the images’ original place. Petroglyphs are carvings in rock as opposed to Pictographs which are drawings. They are considered sacred by the First People and their present site was chosen for its proximity to their original location, now under the waters of the Columbia River. The small lake was formed by the same flooding and provides recreational opportunities. We crossed back over to Oregon on the Hood River Toll Bridge which is so narrow it was scary. In Hood River we went downtown again and ate at the Soul Café. I spoke breifly with one of the owners. He explained the café was a nonprofit to provide a place for teenagers and young people to gather in a safe environment. It was decorated appropriately. From there we drove west to Multnomah Falls. But first, we stopped at the Bonneville Dam and Horsetail Falls. Ralph had never toured a dam before and we Horsetail Falls ^   were just in time to join a short tour which explained the water power turning the turbines that spins the magnets against the copper wire and creates electrons which are sent through cables to transformers to the homes’ light bulbs. This dam also has a fish hatchery and we saw the large sturgeons and trout amongst other fish there. The hatchery is set in amidst a beautiful garden. From the Dam we drove along Hwy 30, a scenic byway, to Horsetail Falls and then Multnomah Falls. Horsetail Falls drops 175 feet from Horsetail Creek. Across from the falls is a marshland such as once flanked the shores of the Columbia River extensively. Multnomah Falls plunges 620’ and is the most visited attraction in Oregon. You can actually see this magnificent falls from I-84 and it has its own exit!  

< Multnomah Falls 

A very windy day the next day, I did the things that you do in any home even if its only 8‘ X 10.’ Gail had taken her mare to see the veterinarian. (Serena had cut her rear left hock on a fence post while kicking at Silver Girl.) Ralph took the truck to Wamic Auto Parts (looking for a part to get our blinkers working again) and to get hay. He ended up all the way in The Dalles (50 miles) to a Ford dealer to get the relay for the turn signals. He also got six bales of nice mixed alfalfa hay on the way back. He stopped in Dufur at the Forest Service Station and got maps of the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Gail and I went to work on her fence to get it repaired and so that the two mares will not fight through the fence anymore. Then at four o’clock we got in Gail’s car and went to the Wasco County Fair in Tygh Valley. We enjoyed some smoothies and a great magician performance. A great entertainer, we laughed and had a great time. We got back to Gail’s and saddled up, she on Pepper and I on Jur and went down the road to Barlow Trail again. We got back to corn and shish kabobs by Ralph.

Gail and I planned to do a point to point (linear) ride Sunday and she volunteered to drive over to see the trail heads we would be riding from and to. So we spent most Thursday afternoon driving all around Mt. Hood looking at trailheads and campsites and plotting our course. We did find a patch of huckleberries to sustain us through all the exploring and saw a great view of Mt. Hood with the flood destruction from the spring evident.

On Saturday, we drove back to the Maryhill Museum to a weekend art show. They had a live band playing jazz and some food with about 30 artists. One was the Opal Man; he dealt in Oregon opals and we got an education not even knowing there were opals in the USA. We also talked with Carol Wild-Delano (carwild@Earthlink.net) who taught art and did graphite drawings. Her portraiture was wonderful. At lunchtime we drove into The Dalles and went back to Spooky’s for sandwiches and time on the Internet. Then back to Gail’s.

Gail and I had planned to get up at 6, leave at 7, and be riding at 8. It was raining at 6, 7 and 8 so we slept in. At nine we did not think we would get to ride that day. At 10 we decided to give it a try when we saw blue peeking through the clouds. Gail took her dog, Sug, in her car with Ralph following with truck, trailer, horses, and Gizmo. We drove to our starting trail and Gail left her car there. At 11:30 Ralph took our picture as we headed out, Gail riding Silver Girl and I on Jur. We rode the same road Collete & I had driven up a few days before. Unfortunately the rain started again. Wearing ponchos we got wet on the bushes brushing against our legs and soaking our shoes. Soon I was cold. It was raining where we were but at another 4000’ it was snowing on Mt. Hood! After Bonney Meadows we picked up Trail #3550. After about 2 ½ miles there was an intersection and a sign. The sign was for #685, our next trail! A ridge trail, we could see it would have beautiful views on a clear day but we were in the low lying clouds for most of it. It did start to clear on the latter half and we even got a view to the east that was definitely Wamic. Gail imagined she could see her house and with binoculars she might have! When we were on the windward side (west) we were cold from the wind but the trail would curve around to the east side and we’d warm up again. The sun was breaking through. After a brief stop at Jack’s Spring, we took the Gumjuwac Trail to the west; it was 4:45. The Gumjuwac Trail was beautiful through old fir growth and fern undergrowth. It was a steadily downhill trail and we went through one rock slide that had a great view of Mt. Hood still in the clouds. At one point we even had a view of our trailer down in the Little John Snow Park (our ending point). We got to the bottom at 6:30 and picked up the trail we had walked two nights before. We had 2.5 miles to go. For 1.5 miles we followed this trail but then it came to a deep creek crossing and rather than cross it and then still have to cross the East Fork River we found a good crossing over the river to climb up to the road. This was uncharted territory and unfortunately it got thick fast. There were some soft areas and a ditch to cross. I hit a branch with hornets and they stung SG behind me but not Gail, thankfully. We had a difficult climb up about 30’. We gave it a try and Jur willingly hopped over a 2’ log on the uphill but SG refused. She reared up and the ground under her back feet gave way. She went straight down at least 12’ landing like she was still on her hind legs. Gail scrambled to get the lead line and encourage SG out of the ditch she’d fallen into. Twice SG tired and failed. Now we knew we needed to just get out of there and go back the way we came but first we had to get SG out of the hole. I climbed down to SG and tried to get her to climb out and twice she pulled me in with her soaking me from the knees down. Then with a little more tree clearing, we went along the ditch and climbed out to join Jur and Gail and get out of there. Back over the river and back down the trail. We got back across the highway and the light was disappearing. So now we rode the right shoulder of Hwy 35 and every time a car came we pulled as far over as we could and called Sug to our side. This was going to take a long time to go 2.5 miles to the Little John Snow Park where Ralph was camped and waiting. After about a half hour of that Ralph came looking for us. We got him to put Sug in the back of the truck and ride the shoulder behind us so we had light and safety and we made much better time the rest of the way. We got to camp at 9 pm, damp and ready for the hot cups of tea Ralph had waiting. Whew! We got the horses unsaddled, fed and watered and Gail’s gear loaded. At ten o’clock, after goodbyes, Ralph drove Gail back to her car.

It was still raining the next morning. Ralph broke down camp on the outside and fed the horses. I worked on the inside. We drove out Little John Snow Camp and up Hwy 35 toward Hood River in the rain. Everything we put away seemed to be wet or damp. This was our first rain of any significance on The Trip. Not bad as it had not stopped the ride yesterday and today was just a drive to a new camp. And Oregon needed the rain. All along Hwy 35 there are orchards and vineyards. Even in the rain there is a beauty as the clouds hang low and shroud the hills. We called Alpine Vet Clinic about getting a health certificate. There were no available appointments but when I said we only had two days she shuffled some appointments to give us a 1:30 appointment. We then drove on to the Hood River Saddle Club. A non-profit organization, it was established in part to allow for those traveling with horses to have a safe stop for as long as needed. We put the horses in well built 10’ X 10’ pens while we awaited our vet appointment. Dr. Mike Foss did a through exam for our health certificate passport allowing us to use it in OR, WA, MT, ID, and CA. While waiting Ralph discovered the mother load of blackberries and we were enjoying a feast when a man came looking for us. He was, Mike G. who was told to come talk to us about our Trip. We proceeded to have a nice chat and show him our trailer. He wants to do something like this too. He, too, got our website address. We went back to the saddle club and hung out the wet stuff. We were meeting my aunt and uncle who drove down from Seattle. It is so great to see family and we have not seen them in years. We enjoyed the great food at the Riverside Grill and a time of reconnecting with Jack and Elaine H.

The next morning Jack and Elaine picked us up and got a brief tour of our home away from home before we all piled in their 4Runner and went to Washington. We drove to Trout Lake, then to the Mt Adams Horse Camp (I wanted to see what the camping was like). After looking around we drove back down to DJ’s Café for lunch. They had the best Huckleberry shake. We never saw Mt Adams fully as it was shrouded in clouds. After lunch we drove toward Carson to an ice cave. Wow! I’d never known of one much less seen one. It was literally a cave and ice was all over the walls and floor. It was formed eons ago from a lava flow and the winter cold forms the ice which never fully melts. The Indians used it and they showed it to McClellan’s troops in 1853 while on a military expedition in the area. (McClellan was ordered to find a route through the Cascades for the railroad. Besides 66 men, he had 173 mules and horses and a saddle especially designed for all this riding. You can still find some of the saddles named for him.) The cave is COLD! Within a few feet of the surface the temperature drops - to freezing! It is a long tunnel with several openings to the surface. After the cave we went to a series of natural bridges. In the springtime the melting snow drains through here further eroding the rock. Next Jack drove us back to Oregon to Multnomah Falls and the Mitchell Point Overlook. We had dinner together and they promised to stop by in the morning before heading back to Seattle.

So on our last day in the Gorge, Jack and Elaine stopped by to say their goodbyes and we packed up once more. It was so great to have had the time with them, lots of laughs and more wonderful memories. They drove out of their way to see us and we were grateful for every minute. We pulled out at ten o’clock and picked up I-84 West. It seemed weird to be leaving the Gorge after ten days. We sure saw a lot and yet there was still so much to see. Now I wanted to get a quick ride in WA State before going to our next stop. So in Portland we took Hwy 205 North into Washington. I have a trail map and am trying to get to a trail head. We are entering the town of Battle Ground, WA and I realize we are not where I had intended. God had other plans. Check back for what happened.

August 22 - September 2, 2007  To the Pacific

As we drove into Battle Ground, WA on August 22, I was realizing my map no longer matched my location and I was not able to direct Ralph further. I had wanted to make the shortest drive into Washington State, find a trail and ride, and get down to our next stop in Oregon all in one day. Temporarily displaced, I suggested we go back to a saddle club we had passed about a mile back and ask directions. There we saw only one person, a woman riding her Quarter Horse in the arena. She not only directed us but called her husband for specific road names. So off we went to Battle Ground Lake State Park. Ralph was not riding to give his back a rest (a pulled muscle). I was ¾ of the way around the circular trail when riding towards me was the same woman who gave us directions at the saddle club. I greeted her with thanks and an introduction as we had never exchanged names. Jan G. lived nearby and as we started to ride together invited us to her home for the night. After consulting both Ralph and her husband, Gunnar, we followed her home. We stayed three days! What a great time getting to know these two wonderful people. Jan and I got to ride again, at Whipple Creek Park, an old forest connected to an old orchard and homestead. We found a blackberry feast and Gizmo enjoyed the run. Ralph got into a chiropractor and latter, at Saddle Dam, we had a great view of Mt. St. Helens and the Yale Reservoir. Jan also drove us to Fort Vancouver National Historic Site. We got there at five o’clock and they were literally closing the gates. With the car barely stopped, Jan ran for the attendant and I grabbed my camera to run after her. At least I could get pictures of the garden! Jan apparently talked to the attendant about the long distance we were visiting from and could they “please, just let us look around briefly.” Sure enough, they let us in to look around while the other attendant locked up buildings. So we looked in windows and saw blacksmith shop, wood shop, and warehouse. After we had been all over the grounds 

                  we went back to the main gate where Ranger Marv Binegar gave us the background of the fort. Fort Vancouver was headquarters for the Hudson’s Bay Company built in 1818. It was to protect the warehousing of British Goods. Dr. John McLoughlin served as chief factor appointed to keep the peace with the Indians, keep the Americans out of the market, and keep the British in. He was “energetic and a genius at organization.” but in 1846 the new Oregon boundary put the fort under the Americans. For more of it’s history click here. We thanked Ranger Binegar profusely for letting us spend a half hour, after hours, looking around. Jan also took us to eat at a great Thai place: Kae Thai Cuisine, that  had live orchids on every table, a 100% inspection rating, and was so pretty we took pictures!

On the 25^th we had to say goodbye to new friends that had so generously taken in complete strangers! After numerous hugs and pictures we drove out the driveway, out of Washington back into Oregon. We stopped at the Blalock Rest Stop on I-5 South of Portland and there was this cool botanical garden called the Walk of the States and there was a tree from each state, even a palm from South Carolina! I don’t know how they kept everything alive. As we drove toward Silver Falls State Park we could see the mountain line rising up. The park is in the southern edge of the Cascade Mountains. It is also a farming community for Christmas trees! We got to Silver Falls State Park (the largest state park in Oregon and with ten waterfalls) and found they were booked solid so we would have to drive on after riding. With trail maps in hand I saddled up Jur. Jur and I rode the Howard Creek Loop and the Buck Mountain Loop and peeked in the Horse Camp. There I got some pictures and wandered through and found an empty campsite. The people at the next campsite greeted me so I asked them if they knew whether “A” was taken. They did not think so and encouraged me to ask at the park entry again. I thanked them and started to leave when they told me to pay the “extra vehicle” fee and just stay in their campsite. And that is what we did! We joined Ed and Terry Y. at their campsite. We pulled right in front of their rig, parallel with the road and unloaded. We all gathered in their picnic area and got to know each other a bit. Both were retired from the same company and enjoying their retirement, occasionally camping with their horses. We were fortunate they were so welcoming and enjoyed a great evening around the campfire.

We left Silver Falls State Park at 11 am the next morning after seeing the South Falls. The falls were down a short trail and very pretty falling over a rock wall into a large pool surrounded by the greenery of a rain forest. There is also a lower trail that you walk around to walk behind the falls. Then we headed to Kittyhawk Kigers, a mustang rescue (KittyhawkKigers@AOL.com). Mike L. greeted us and we got the horses settled and Ralph set up the trailer. Then we learned about mustangs. There are wild herds on mostly BLM lands in the west. These are horses but on the small side, under 15 hands and of Spanish ancestry. All the Kigers (a particular herd from a particular part of Oregon) are duns (having dorsal stripes and zebra like bars of color on their legs). Many of the horses on Mike and Jeanie’s place are wild caught and being broke for resale. A few are bred there as they have two stallions. This lovely guerllo filly is one for sale.

The next morning Ralph trimmed suckers from the Ennis Hazelnut Trees that are grown on the ranch. Between five and six feet tall they are producing nuts and surviving droughts but need trimming and plowing beneath. At about four Ralph and I saddled up and joined six others on mustangs to do a short ride. We ate a lot of blackberries along the way and returned to sit in the shade of the awning. At six I joined another group and went back out for a slightly longer ride. For once, I felt like I was on a tall horse.

On Tuesday we fed the horses and put Gizmo in the trailer and headed to Eugene to a leather shop. The day before we had met Bill who has made his own saddle from leather at the Oregon Leather Company. A great shop of almost entirely leather and leather goods though there was some ready made tack. Then we went to a farmers’ market of all organic produce and beautiful flowers in downtown Eugene! (Oregon and California are the land of the organically grown.) We returned to the ranch just when the young people Mike was expecting were piling out of a van. Mike was showing them to their trailers and tents. Besides rescuing mustangs, Mike and Jeanie minister to homeless youth in Eugene through Hosea Youth Services ( hysproject@AOL.com if you want info). All are either previous runaways or were on the streets by choice. There were as many girls as guys and they cussed worse than sailors and smoked like chimneys and were like any one their age with tattoo’s and piercing and all the garb of youth and hopes of the future. Jeanie explained that many of them live like a family on a given street in Eugene. There they trade for their needs. I spoke with one young man who told me of his struggle to not return to a life of crime. He doesn’t appear to be twenty but is actually older. He admitted his only hope is in faith in God rather than himself but was expressing his doubts of walking in faith. (Raised on the streets, self-sufficiency is their god.) Another young man was trying to decided the best use of drugs. Oregon has legalized marijuana and late term abortion. Most these young people had experience in both at young ages. I got into riding clothes and saddled Silver Girl to be used to give them rides. While I worked with the horses and youth, Ralph got the food going.

Besides the youth we also met Aaron and Amy E. who are interning with Mike at Hosea Youth Services. They have sold everything to be part of a church planting and now they are ministering where God has them in Eugene, OR. After another ride in the morning, Ralph had cheese eggs and biscuits cooked for everyone, which was very welcome. Then, after some hackey sak, we piled in the van and drove out to Lane County Triangle Lake Park for everyone to get a break from the heat. I only got hotter as I was on the dock taking photos of their water dives. Ralph got in for a brief swim and enjoyed cooling off. Ken H. had brought sandwiches, chips and cookies and everyone enjoyed. I shared a sandwich with Frances and Gizmo had to finish it off. We had some more great discussions around the table.  These young people have some diverse beliefs that originate from their diverse backgrounds and environments as children. Ralph and I both thought this group was very well adjusted and growing considering their very rough “coming of age.” From the Lake they went back to the church where they hung out or dispersed home. We and Aaron and Amy went to our places and then back to the church. “The church” was the basement of the Eugene First Evangelical Church on Monroe and 8^th Street in Eugene. We got there just as dinner was served and enjoyed it with them before saying our goodbyes. (Click Crazy Trent for a video - Warning! It is of youth!) 

On August 30, we got ready to leave Kittyhawk Kigers. When Ralph went out to pack up he found the rear left tire on the trailer with an egg like bulge. Thankfully we were still sitting in the field. We had a enjoyable hour talking with Mike that just blessed both of us as we told him about our interaction with the young people and he told us about his labor of love with the young people in his life. He and Jeanie are special people being used by God in hearts and lives. We pulled out and went to get the tire replaced, then on west. This was the day to reach the Pacific coast. We drove along the Siuslaw River to the Coast at Florence, OR. When we got near the coast you could see clouds over the horizon except they were not clouds but fog. The whole of the coast was shrouded in a heavy, gray mist. We picnicked at the South Jetty Parking area for ORVs in the Oregon Sand Dunes National Recreation Area. Everything from dune buggies to four wheelers were getting out onto the sand dunes. The entire coast here starts with sand dunes covered in grasses and shrubs. You have to hike up and over these to actually see and reach the ocean. And it is quite a hike in the very soft, deep sand. Though only 20 or so feet high it got us huffing and puffing. But it was as worth it as some of the mountains tops we have been to. To see that ocean which we had heard roaring since we stopped for lunch and still were a quarter of a mile from was quite the moment! It is majestic in its power. Always waves are not just rolling in but crashing in. Its sound matches its endless restlessness. We walked down to the edge commenting on the differences from the Atlantic. The sand is hues of grays and from fine and deep to rough and rocky. Driftwood, worn and gray, is everywhere in all shapes and sizes. It is not uncommon to see an entire tree stump the size of a grown elephant at the high water mark. After marveling at all this we hiked back over the dune to the truck and continued our drive down the coast on Hwy. 101, the Pacific Coast Highway. We got north of Bandon and easily found Bullards Beach State Park  on the north side of the Coquille River. We got the only horse camp site still available. We were told to check back for cancellations for the Friday and Sat. nights. The horse camp at this park is further out toward the coast along the river and just off the beach. Believe me, you don’t want to be camped on the beach. Though they have not had a Tsunami since 1961, the evidence of tremendous wind damage from the frequent winter storms is there. While we were there the wind died at night but normally began to blow by mid day. And with daytime temperatures in the high 60s and winds of 20mph it is not comfortable out there without some good layers of clothes. We saddled up the horses and went for our first ride along the pacific coast on horseback. With a little snorting and big eyes they crested the dune and started picking their way over sand and driftwood. We never did get them into those waves but ever closer as we rode down the beach maybe a mile and back. By then it was getting late and we were getting cold. As soon as we went over the dune again there was a noticeable change in temperature - to bearable. We got back to camp and met Ginger S. in campsite HC4. She was unable to stay for the weekend as planned and offered us her place. So the next morning we moved to her great campsite and stayed for the Labor Day weekend!

The last day of August was absolutely beautiful. No sign of fog like the day before and we were told we better take advantage. We were ready to do that. On horseback, on the Pacific, with each other, riding to a historic lighthouse. We rode to the Coquille River Lighthouse. Built in 1892 and in operation until only 1937, it is the only lighthouse on the Pacific and on a river. It is now under a two year reconstruction project to restore it to its original condition. At the lighthouse a young lady approached asking to photograph us. Sure! A fellow photography buff, Stevie used our camera to get a few pictures of us. We also walked the jetty working our way around great logs of drift wood. There was a dredging boat working on clearing the channel. As we walked the jetty we got into conversation with Larry and Connie W. from Phoenix, AZ. We did not learn their names until the next day but Larry and I were very enthused about our cameras, having the same models, and started talking about shots, angles, and lighting. They also told us about a fish and chips restaurant on the other side of the river in Bandon so after a great conversation in the Pacific spray we went there for our late lunch. But first we rode back to camp by way of the beach. We had a great lunch of fish and chips and crab chowder at the Bandon Fish Market and then walked the Old Towne of Bandon. The city has used the endless supply of driftwood to make public seating and even a totem pole. There are fishing boats coming in and out with the crab catches. We ended the beautiful day at the beach and a beautiful sunset.

The next morning I rode along the river while Ralph and Gizmo walked the park. I got back to camp after Ralph who had found a note on our door from Larry and Connie inviting us to their RV. They invited us into their Class A motor home and we proceeded to get to know each other better. Both are retired from the school system of Arizona, Larry from teaching music and Connie from working administration. They were interested in where we’d been and where we were going and we got out our itinerary and they gave us some more ideas and a welcome if we get to the Phoenix area. Then we agreed to meet at our place after the sunset that evening and share pictures. So we went to a feed store for hay, did our laundry, and grocery shopping. We got back to the trailer and had dinner. Larry and Connie arrived just after 8. Ralph had a great fire going. At nine thirty we got in our vehicles and went over to Larry and Connie’s. She made us hot tea and served us newly baked blackberry crumble. Larry and I got out our laptops and shared our favorite photos. We left just before midnight having had a lovely evening. We hope to pick up with Larry and Connie again in Arizona.

Sunday, I saddled up Jur and took him out to the beach for some quiet time. We rode the beach a ways and he was still jumping away from the waves. Horses fear the shifting waves as the foam conceals the bottom and the roar of the sea must be deafening to their acute hearing. Jur stepped into the waves when I led him (pants rolled up but still getting soaked) but each time I got back on him he sprang out again. It was tough to get him to walk into the sea even to six inches. I gave him a break while I spent some time meditating, reading and enjoying this awesome place. Then we rode back to camp and packed up once more. We pulled out at one o’clock traveling down the Pacific Northwest coast and entering California. We passed the historic rock of Port Orford where they have a protected cove that attracts the surfers. The day is beautiful and the Pacific is relatively flat and calm. Just as we got to Humbug Mountain (and Humbug Mountain State Park) I saw whales. Gray whales which migrate in this area (though it is early yet). Poor Ralph had to pull over wherever he could so I could try to get some shots. (In the picture, the whale is surfacing just below the seagull.) Running parallel part of the way is the Old Coast Road, an awesome drive for a SUV or motorcycle, it winds along the coast and has even more scenic views. At 3:40 we entered California and then Smith River, the Easter Lilly capitol of the World. We got our first glimpse of the mighty Redwoods along Hwy 101. Big stumps remained from the clearing for the road. Then on to Crescent Beach, where Ralph says he could easily live. I think it was all the surfers waiting for waves that attracted him. Once a surf bum always a surf bum! Then inside the Redwoods National Park down Hwy 101. We are driving through the Yurok Indian Reservation. These native people have fished the rivers and ocean for centuries and harvested the mighty redwood for their homes and canoes. They still fish the same areas their ancestors did. We get to Orick, a town of about 300+ people. It once had three saw mills and the town grew to one thousand but when the sawmills closed, the people went elsewhere for jobs. The town has an elk viewing field and the gray whales travel offshore. With mountains on one side and the pacific beach on the other this is close to what I have said my next place of residence would have to have (mountains and beach). The rodeo grounds we are staying at are behind the school and along the Redwood Creek. We were set up in no time and then disengaged the truck to drive to the beach to see if we could see more whales. No whales but a great sunset. A great start to the second half of The Trip.

Sept 2 marked the halfway point in our Great American Adventure. Four months of The Trip was now memories and four months were yet to unfold. We had traveled to the Pacific and got our feet wet and were now to travel east again and put our feet in the Atlantic. By now we are seeing changes in our itinerary as we do not want to miss any opportunity. We may only travel this way but once. So we have decided to spend longer in California than originally planned and speed up the time between Texas and home. We will not actually be “home” until after the new year and The Trip will end in central Florida at my family’s annual family reunion in Inverness, FL. What better celebration than one with family and at a new year! We will make a stop at our home to lighten our load before going on to FL. With 9926 miles to show for the trip so far, we underestimated mileage! We had estimated 12K miles for The Trip but there are few miles we regret and all have had their excitement. Continue reading for the rest of The Great American Adventure!